All Forum Posts

My latest acquisition a 961. Hope it’s a good’en.   

Does anyone know what material is used on original Amal 932 1975 Mk3 carburetor slides?

I want to anodize the slides but need to confirm if they are just zinc or an alloy with aluminium or something else!

Percentage of metals used would be perfect. 

I just put new Avon Road Riders on my bike - 90/90 19" front and 100/90 19" back - because I read somewhere here that they are the equivalent of 300 and 350 that were originally supplied with the bike.

But I been told by the person conducting the official road test here (MoT equivalent) that they should be 410s and the the bike would fail the test.

It seems at some point Norton did increase the sizes to 410 front and back. Does anyone know what date this was done, and maybe even got an official paper showing this?

I  have an anti wet sump valve courtesy of RGM on my Atlas.

I've just emptied the oil tank and sump in lieu of an oil change and realised the pump will be dry unless I prime it before starting the engine. Obviously, with the valve in place no oil will gravitate down into the pump when I fill the tank up. I suppose I'll have to remove the valve again and pour engine oil into the oil union pipe, or is there another way?

Been doing a few tweaks to the front end of the ol' Atlas and noticed the new shoes I fitted a few months back on the John Tickle TLS front brake are wearing slightly irregularly (see pics) The top side seems ok but the lower side isn't.

It actually still works well as it is and I thought I'd got it right last time I adjusted it, but obviously not.

Get it spot on and I reckon a few stoppies will be in order!

Hi, Checking and re-checking the marks on my 69 Commando prior to rough setting the Wassell electronic ignition...

Timing side, Crank pinion timing mark at 12.00, aligns between 2 paint marks on idler sprocket. 2 dots on idler and cam sprocket approx 12.00 and 10 pins and 6 plates between the dots.

I rotate the engine and check valves on right hand cylinder so I am at tdc on firing stroke (pretty sure timing side sprocket marks are still aligned but replaced timing cover so not 100% sure)

How do I check if the battery is getting charged by the genny?

The battery appears to lose charge over a period of a couple of weeks if not used regularly and the lights have never been much good for night riding. This bike doesn't get used a lot due to the weather so it sits in the garage for a few weeks at a time. I fitted a new stator 6 months ago.

So I have my re-ground crank back and want good quality +20 shells now. What and who can supply these ? Is there a good brand and is there a `do not bother with out there ? Do AE supply shells for Nortons ?

cheers.

The speedo in my 57 Dominator 99 (mph) is marked  1550,   S467/203N.

Is it the correct one?

I haven't checked it against another vehicle yet, but I have the feeling it is reading too fast.

Has anyone got reference list on these Smiths speedos?

Love the pics of the partially stripped factory bikes in the current slideshow. Pity the primary drive is barely visible, would like to have seen the setup of the outrigger bearings that I think they were fitted with, to try and cope with the extra torque, but I guess that's the problem with cropping a photo to fit within a given space- something has to be left out!

But why is there a road-going JPN Replica in the middle of it? Sure, its a nice bike, but a bit out of kilter with the main pics, and worthy of a slideshow of its own at some point.

In the next few weeks there are a couple of MK3 Commando's going to auction, despite both having a V5 the auction description does not match the records held here. 

As usual, buyer beware. 

Hello all,

I have some tooling that apparently came from Bracebridgr street. It came with a load of Manx Norton parts I purchased a while back.   

It’s includes the tooling to build the flywheels, crank truer, timing discs and box full of various tooling to build Norton Singles.   

its very very heavy duty and weighs a lot, 

I would like to move it all on as it’s taking up space I do not have. It’s all located in West Midlands but can deliver to most ends of the UK 

I’ve attached a couple photos but there is more 

Is it possible to swap out the cigar silencer exhaust system on a 1969 Commando Fastback with the peashooter system?

First off apologies if this is a repeat but I can’t find anything in the archives.

scenario is a 1960 ES2 engine fitted with a Commando gearbox and RGM belt drive, all housed in a slimline frame.

Sadly my Santa-ride for charity was halted due to the clutch not freeing up making  control difficult.

Thinking this probably an oil seal problem I have stripped down the primary side and found one definite problem and possibly two more.

Can anyone tell me the exact sizes for the two oil seals, gearbox drive side outer and engine crank shaft drive side? For my 57 Dominator.

I live in a place which uses the metric system, so will have to search well for these. Having the exact sizes will help a lot.

Would it be better to get metal case or rubber covered?

It has a bad oil leak from somewhere behind the primary case, and I'll fit new seals when I put it all together.

The existing seals are maybe 20 years old but the bike has done only 50 miles in this time.

Thank you.

The top bolt that secures the gearbox  is innacessible to a socket set.  The nut should be reduced hexagon to allow a socket to fit . But reduced to what?. Mine is 15/16 inch across the flats and needs a 1/2 inch whit socket  which fouls the box ., Is this some more foul play by Plumstead or just a PO  alteration?.  My 99 was no trouble ,but is not with me to check . Not clear what our suppliers are actually supplying but I think 7/16 whit  hex is needed ?.

Hello again all,

The rebuild of my 1947 Gardengate 40M is proceeding well and I have now reached the stage where I  have to dip into my pocket for a few more bits.

This time I need a Tacho and Tacho drive unit.

I have rotated the engine forwards (ie the direction of the crank if the engine was running - Anticlockwise if looked at and turned via the Primary Drive nut!) and noted that the drive gear for the Tacho rotates Anticlockwise. This is the camshaft drive.

Gudgeon Pin - My 650SS came to a sudden halt. The piston had a crack and a small hole. The bores were OK so I ordered a set of standard pistons from RGM in September. For personal reasons the engine rebuild had to be put on hold and I have only just got back to it. The Gudgeon pins supplied are an interference fit in the small end – as far as I can tell they are about 1thou larger in diameter than the old ones. I have contacted RGM but not yet had a reply. I wondered if anyone else has come across this problem.

The guard on the 63 SS  lolls a bit to the offside and gets too close to the fork shroud ,the chrome is showing a wear mark. Its been off and on a few times to try to get it to behave. and i have tried wedging it over with all the fixings loose etc.,but  before i get heavy with it and start slotting the orriginal stay holes and bending things I wonder  if anyone has any crafty wisdom from solving this. The fork leg lengths are equal too.

Would someone please confirm the correct fitment regarding the rotor and alternator for the above model. The numbers I have are; 468678/47119A960 for the alternator, 2 wires and 466177/423506 for the rotor, many thanks   David

Hi NOC rallyists,

I have booked for the John Bull Rally in Belgium and wondered if any other NOC members are going this year?

Regards to all, Alan Throssell

Hi,I'm struggling to find an standard size 79mm x 1/8 oil ring for my piston,could anyone point me in the right direction?

Many thanks

Bob

Hello, new member and first post so hopefully right forum.

I have the chance to buy a P11 frame and an N15CS crashed bike, both dated 1967. My plan is to take engine gearbox, wheels and forks from the N15 and build them into the P11 frame. Engine and gearbox are the same for both models, 750 Norton with AMC primary but, the N15 forks and hubs are Norton whereas the P11s are AMC. I am obviously not trying to build a P11 but should make a nice Norton special.

Hope you all enjoyed reading the 2nd instalment of the rebuilding of my Atlas that the Roadholder editor was kind enough to publish in the Jan & Feb issues. I've gotta say it was a fun project. The ol' bike is still going strong and is a blast to ride.

Hi All,

Does anyone on here know where I can get a rear mudguard (new or good second hand) for my 54 ES2. It's quite a large guard with a hinged flap at the bottom. In fact that's where the problem lies. The flap is full of vibration cracks and before I pull out the welding torch I wondered if I could substitute it with a good one.

Many thanks,

Albert

Has any one booked for this as traveling up from near Coventry , keeping off motorways if possible so if any one wants to meet up on the way , will also be camping so hope not every one taking camper vans and weather going to be good .

Is it just me, or are more people putting Sale/Wanted ads in the Forums, instead of using the Classified section?

Is there a need to indicate more prominently that ads should not be placed in the Forums?

I know I'm an old grump, but hey.. 

Looking for some info and advice regarding pushrods for my 'mix and match' 1959 Dominator 99.

I've been running this in (gently?) for just over 1000 miles after replacing both the head and barrels last winter (the 'new' head is a refurbed early-1960 model 99 casting 22707 with some reasonable porting work done by one of its previous owners).

During the rebuild, I (foolishly?) stuck with the fat barrel-shaped alloy pushrods that had been no trouble in the previous incarnation of my own engine (using an early-1959 T2225 head).

My name is Jim Sadler and I recently joined the NOC having acquired a 1969 Commando Fastback.

I am listed as Adrian Sadler with the NOC but I loathe my first name, Adrian, and have always used my second, James.

That's the whingeing out of the way.