The clutch frees quite easily on second kick, but when the machine is in motion it drags causing sometimes difficult gear changing. When the machine comes to rest it still wants to move forward even with the clutch lever pulled back to the handlebars, though this is not always the case.
The aluminium bottom of the fork leg (near side) has cracked. On removal of the stud that is used to pinch the wheel spindle in position a small portion fell away . i.e. the crack was right through. Can this be satisfactorily welded ? Any recommendations on who could do it ?
On dismantling the fork leg I found two fibre washers at the bottom where the damper unit sits. The exploded view of the fork shows only one. Could there be a reason why someone has assembled the fork with two of these washers in place ? Is it a mistake ? Is it recommended to solve a particular problem ?
anybody know off the top of their head what size and no. of links the magneto chain should have for 29' Model 18.....thanks in advance
Hi more info required!
On 16h and big4 frames pre war, is there any differences in the width of the engine and gearbox mounting points.
At the front where the engine bolts in the frame at the casting with 2 holes.
Also where the gearbox bottom mounting to frame width?
The reason I ask is I seem to have one crankcase with 2.125" wide mountings at the front and 3.25" at the rear.
The other crankcase is 2.25" front and 3.3125" at the rear.
Also the gearbox shells I have seem to be different in widthat the bottom mount too. (Dollshead shells)
Hi
I am correcting a bodged up bike for a friend.
Can someone let me know the dimensions of the following.
Rear wheel spacer outside of brake drum (goes over dummy axle) and the cotton reel one for the right side between the frame and wheel.
The 2 front wheel spacer nuts that are inside and outside of the brake plate.
Thanks guys
Paul
I have a 1949 ES2 I have been restoring (first ever British bike I have owned) I took it for a short test run today up and down the road. My question is really about the air lever (choke) the bike ran much cleaner with the air lever fully open, is this normal ? Im used to using choke to start then close when warm, I had the advance/retard in about the middle. Any advice would be appreciated .
Also it sometimes missed 2nd gear changing up and went to 3rd but coming down was ok, any ideas ?
Thanks,
Mick
The concentrics on my Dommie have viton tipped needles, and don't flood even with the fuel on for hours. But the 276 inverted arranged needle allows the chamber to overflow in minutes. I've tried and obviously failed to bed it in with metal polish, and even swapped to an alternative. Is there a viton tipped version of the needle for the earlier carbs? I'm tempted to turn a groove and add an o-ring. I wonder if that would work or might jam?
It's all right on the road when the engine is sucking fuel anyway. At least I think it is...
I've had an anti drain valve on my Commando for ages with no problems at all and thinking about fitting one to my 19S (1956). As the bike is used infrequently it's a nuisance to drain the crankcase before every ride, and I like the "fit and forget" nature of anti drain valves rather than shut off taps. Pros and cons?
Does anyone use a torque wrench to tighten the engine sprocket and clutch basket? If so what should i tighten it to on my '35 Es2? Be nice to have some idea instead of just guessing as I usually do. Many thanks .
Does anyone know where l can get a full set of stainless studs bolts etc for a 1934 16H engine to frame fastenings
