Heavy Twins

Hello fellow noccers, I removed my primary side cover to investigate why the oil level was rising in the primary chain case of my 1962 650ss.

Acting on advice given in a previous thread, I've purchase a side stand kit and an extended magneto nut from RGM Norton Ltd. First off, I have to say that the quality is excellent, but neither would fit without some modifications being carried out. 

For the magneto nut to fit, I had to remove a small amount of the crankcase joint flange to give enough clearance for the nut to line up with the stud and turn freely. My die-grinder made that an easy fix.

Hi Folks, I am rejuvinating a 650SS that has not run for many years, The motor seems sound, it was rebuilt many years ago. I have checked the timing, Lucas Rita, put a single manifold on with over jetted slightly, Monobloc carb, and it's heating up the pipes and blueing them. I have used E5 fuel. What am I doing wrong or is it poor chrome on new pipes, poor fuel, or is this the norm now? any advice would be useful. Thanks

Davy

Hello would anybody have any P11 Fork sliders they would be willing to sell I know these are AJS Matchless items but thought I'd ask on the Norton Forum

I can source all the internals from Novil / Andover Norton but my sliders are damaged

Thanks in advance

First, regarding the magneto. I've just offered up the K2FC to the studs in the crankcase. There appears to be a little play as the mag pivots on the lower stud. I thought this may be a way of adjusting the chain tension but it's only about a millimetre or so of movement. Is that the only way of setting the chain tension?

Whilst taking the front and back brakes apart to service them I noticed these, which I assume, are grease nipples on the end of the spindle bolts, only they're not actually nipples you can attach a grease gun to.

I cleaned them out with a thin wire. They were caked up with old dry gease. The thin channel that runs through these bolts is obviously to grease goes the spindles but I can't quite figure out how you'd inject the grease or what with?

I'd also assume they should have some kind of rubber dust cap to prevent ingress of dirt and dust.

I refitted the forks on my bike and they don't leak anymore and seem to work ok but the L/H shroud has started coming loose. I guess I didn't check if the three screws holding it on were tight! That means I'll have to remove it all again so I can get to the screws and tighten them up.

In the meantime, I have a few questios as the Haynes manual diagram is a vit vague:

1. I see on the NOCshop that there's a leather washer for Roadholder forks, What's the leather washer for? Should I have them on my bike's forks (Atlas) and if so, where do they go?

Here are some really useful modifications I did on my Atlas which have improved it quite a bit:

Thorspark Electronic coil ignition - easy to install into a KF2 magneto without having to remove it first, not overly expensive, very simple, fit and forget. Engine fires first kick.

RGM anti-wet sump valve - really useful piece of kit that automatically prevents wet sumping, Fit and forget, and it works too!

Lucas Ignition switch - positioned on the instrument bracket for easy access

This workshop manual was written in the late 1950s or early '60s by PL Garratt, the Norton Service Department manager who succeeded EM Franks( the author of a well-known servicing book).  I have looked for a copy of Garratt for ages and not found one. Does anyone have a spare, or know where to find such a book? 

Many years ago when I lived in New Zealand, I borrowed a copy of Garratt from the National Library on interloan, and made some photocopies (most given away to friends), but an original would be good to have. 

Paul

Hoping to start complete rebuild of 650SS  next week just fitting nuts on conrod ends with big end shells fitted need torque setting for big end nuts looked for manual could not find can anyone help 

thanks

John