Hi - Can anyone help?
I am trying to re-register my Norton Dominator 99 600cc bike. It's been off the road since 1972 and has now been rebuilt. I am trying to get a new historic number to get it back on the road - The old number is now on a bus in Liverpool.
I have got a V765 form which has to be signed by a member of a bike club to have it authenticated. Hoping someone could help me - I am in Nottingham.
Thanks
In the past, I have found that buying control cables that are ready made results in huge variability, so I'm hoping to make them this time.
Does anyone know if Norton published figures for outer and inner cable lengths for the following:
A2/262 Throttle cable
A2/259 Choke cable
A2/256 Magneto cable
A2/271 Decompressor cable
B2/268 Front brake cable
D12/268 Front brake cable
A2/265 Clutch cable
D12/265 Clutch cable
I am dealing with all standard parts on the bikes - no mods.
I’ve never had this issue before, so I’m not sure if it’s even a problem. The other day I did a trial fitting of the front wheel into my project Dommie 99 forks (7 inch forks). The wheel is a really snug fit between the sliders with absolutely no gap either side when it’s fitted. However, the gap between the rim and fork leg is slightly different on the left-hand and right-hand sides. The difference isn’t huge - it’s just 3mm. The gap is 3mm wider on the brake plate side. The thing is I’m not sure if I should be worried about it or not.
I have a 1935 CS1 which I am gradually rebuilding.
I am glad to say that it is very original with the correct engine, gearbox and frame nos.
According to factory records the bike was first delivered to Alexanders of Edinburgh who had branches in Edinburgh and Glasgow known as J.R. Alexander & Co. They were taken over by Cowies in 1960 and subsequently went out of business about 10 years later.
The article in the latest “Roadholder” on noise reduction leaves me hoping you guys will put something on this website about your experiences. I too have Armours’ pattern silencers on my Dommie 99 and they’re hard to live with even wearing a full face helmet. What we tolerated years ago is unacceptable today. It was disappointing to read that the decibel killers didn’t seem to work. Any suggestions?
The Webb forks on my 20's Model 18 require some minor straightening.
Can anybody recommend someone they have used recently and who has done a good job ?
Thanks.
Does anyone know whether the cam plate and quadrant bushes should protrude slightly into the case or be flush with it?
cheers
dan
Congratulations in naming and shaming CE Design for its poor performance and quality of work on James Whiting's Mazak items on p.26 of the new RH397. (Incidentally - also called "Zamak" by some manufacturers). We need more of these criticisms where they are clearly due.
Obviously this is just one person't experience, but unless you think James is lying then it is valid and DID happen! I do feel sorry for James, having paid a King's Ransom for extremely shoddy work.
I may have over elaborated on my featherbed Twins post on rear drum assembly. All I need to know is when tightening the LH wheel nut (the stub axle one) does it tighten onto the small shoulder on stub axle (where the flats terminate) and the inside of the swingarm fork end, the shoulder seems very small? On my bike this leaves the brakeplate and spacer very slightly loose. Or is the spacer and brakeplate supposed to be firmly trapped against the swing arm fork inner face.
I’ve just seen that Peter Williams passed away peacefully over the weekend. Sad news indeed. RIP Peter. if you use Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/johnplayernorton/permalink/3583950985054027/
Dan
The Norton Owners Club Limited
Registered Office: 5 Walsall Street, Wednesbury, West Midlands WS10 9BZ
Registered in England No. 12037569
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