All Forum Posts

Hi all, I have to replace my 4S cam, what with though, STD or 4S?

The bike was built as a MH Replica PR with MH big valve head, 4S, 10-1 piston & Rita EI with 4S advance curve.

Now, it’s got FullAuto head, std pistons, 4S.

 I’m quite happy with the cam, but not sure if std or PW3 would be better?

TIA

Paul

What would be the correct procedure - Shorten Pushrods or Valves to correct valve gear geometry?

I have a 1973 850 Commando, which had been starting and running well until I replaced the battery.

I had some trouble making the connections to the new battery; it appears that the bike has been wired with a negative earth. I therefore tested the obvious negative connections with a circuit tester and made the connections appropriately.

They were as follows:

Large earth cable from an earth point near the right hand side Z Plate

Three red wires attached together with an earth label on them

Black Wire from the Voltage Regulator

Seen conflicting info on this, it seems now that vehicles in France need a sticker. The conflict seems to be that vehicles not registered in France may need a sticker to use any road in France and not just the low emission zones. As you can see this would affect anyone travelling to the rally via France and and others using the Calais routes even if they are going elsewhere in Europe. It seems that classic motorcycles, pre 2000 are exempt - a good thing, but it suggests that these vehicles are not allowed in any of the zones at all. 

My ‘55 parts book lists the speedo cable as B2/552, I need one so ordered one from the club listed as B2/552 4’6”  but I can’t see any route that makes the cable long enough to reach the speedo, what route is it supposed to take and any idea how long it should be if not 4’6”! 

Cheers

Dan 

Can anyone tell please me if it is possible to replace the float in a Amal twin carburettor without having to remove the whole unit and if so how is it done?

As some of you will know, I had the Tri-Greeves and the XBR500 stolen a couple of weeks ago. I have to say that the brokers, RH were very efficient and the underwriters paid up the agreed values (less £50 excess for each) this week. So far so good.

However, when I tried to add the 2 new bikes (BSA/Suzuki and Yamaha SRV250) to the policy I was told that the underwriters (ERS) wouldn't accept them. Not only that but they wouldn't renew the policy for the Norton (which fortunately wasn't stolen), which is due for renewal in a couple of weeks!

Hi, looking for throttle cable assembly for a 650ss to suit twin carbs.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Doug

Hi there, I’m getting close to finishing the restoration of my 1957 500 wide line inter and as you might guess the exhaust pipe and silencer are both quite rusty but salvageable. I initially looked at Armours to supply a complete system but they couldn’t be bothered to answer my enquiry and from what I’ve read most people seem to have trouble with the fit of their supplied pipes. I could order an unplated pipe so if it doesn’t fit I can make it fit then get it plated, or, patch up my existing pipe and silencer then paint it black.

Having just sourced a Smiths speedometer and  the speedo gearbox for my 1940 16H,  I’m now looking for the correct speedo cable with a male spade end to fit the gearbox.  Any recommendations where I may obtain one in the UK please!  Jim.

I fired up my 750 Commando last Saturday after around 4 months of being stored in my garage over the U.K. winter. Stalled it when engaging first gear. Kept revs up and pulled away fine. Gear changes difficult though, more effort needed on the gear pedal than I recall from pre-winter. Improved a bit after a short ride into town and back. I guess that the reason is rust on the steel clutch plates so will improve with use. Any other thoughts?

I need advice please. Currently restoring a 1959 ES2 and I have a control cable which I cant locate where it should go. It’s 118 cms/46/5 inches in length and has an adjustment on it. I have 5 control cables in position on the handlebars. Clutch, Front Brake, Air control, Throttle, Exhaust valve. Any ideas where it should go.

Thank you. 

Recently a MK3 has been put back onto the road after having it's insurance category changed. Originally it was sold back to its owner and given a 'parts only' category despite the fact that the bike could have been repaired. The insurance company involved was not one that had knowledge of classics and just assumed that parts could not be obtained. The person doing the repairs challenged this and won the argument and as such the bike can be repaired and used on the road. 

Hello!  I'm so excited to get my '71 Norton Commando back in action.  A couple years ago I made the mistake of leaving the fuel petcocks open, and gas seeped into the oil.  Fine, just drain it and flush and refill....but then the sump plug didn't come out.

So it sat until someone told me about a fluid extractor.  So I extracted what I could, started the engine, turned it off and extracted more and slowly replaced the oil that way.

Evening gents,

I am currently disassembling my wheels for a rebuild and I am having trouble removing the front brake drum after removing the three barrel nuts. Is there a special removal for this or is it just needing some persuasion from a rubber mallet? The manual says nill!   

Thanks.

I have recently acquired a magneto ignition 1962 650SS (151BJW) which seems to have appeared in a couple of magazine articles in the past Real Classic issue 163 November 2017 and Classic Bike Guide January 2024.

I have now had a couple of short outings and have removed the seat and tank to investigate cable routings etc.

In doing so, I found that the (12V) battery was completely dry and effectively knackered with zero Volts.

I have a replacement frame coming in for my '58 ES2.

Hi Guys,

Hankering after a serious motorcycle project, I am now the proud owner of a frame (with a V5c), a pair of wheels, and half a dozen boxes of assorted Commando parts. Probably 90-95% of a complete bike!

From the engine number and various observations and measurements, it would appear to be a 1972 non combat version. The barrels have been rebored to +0.030" but I have no pistons. Also short of a L.H. inlet rocker, both inlet valves and a primary drive cover. Maybe someone has some of the spares I need? Be good to find pistons and the rocker??

Surely these lower compression ? What`s the point of these on a standard motor ?

hello has anybody got a set of mudguards for a 1952 Norton big four as mine have rotted through . or has any body had experience with the ones that are for sale from India. there is money waiting .or any advise and help would be appreciated.

Many ,many years ago I  brush painted my 99 with a polyurethane coach paint , supplied by Groves . I still have plenty of this paint but cant remember what undercoat/primer? thinner  is needed . I suspect its an ICI product  and probably contains Zylene . Any painters out there who can advise?.

a have a 6v cyclon battery that has been around for god knows how many years and has never needed charging ! , I am going to fit to a  little old italian bike. I can access the top of the cell and wonder if after all these years a little distilled water may be beneficial to the gel ?acid  which is bound to have dried out a bit.Anyone tried this ?.

I have a 1956 Dominator 99 and would like to know how and who can convert my electrical system to 12volt from 6 volt.

Hi apologies if this has been covered in this forum already. I recently bought a Dominator and it has to be kept on charge which is ok but even so it's still tricky to start. Does anyone have any recommendations on replacement batteries for them?

Thank you,

Gordon

Hi the correct carb for my 16h is a 276AT/1BE however this is completely worn out and needs replacing,would any stub fitting 276 with the correct jets etc work,I'm also at a complete loss as to what the AT/1BE part means.Any help would be appreciated.

Regards

Bob

hello I have recently purchased a 1952 Norton big four. the rear mudguard is pretty much rotted out. it has been bodged in the past with the use of vast amounts of p38 filler. has any one got or know of the whereabouts of another one.many thanks.

hello,

could anyone tell me if the nuts that hold the rear brake drum onto the cotton reel hub are normal thread. they are very tight . can seem to budge them. ive tried shouting at them, but that didnt work.

barry

Just rebuilt my forks. New stanchions bushes and seals etc. What oil would you recommend.

I took my ‘72 Roadster out yesterday for the first time this year.  After 5 miles I noticed that the front brake was binding and I had zero play on the brake lever (it had gradually been reducing).  By the time I had found a safe (ish) place to pull over the front wheel was practically locked solid.  With a piece of rag and a spanner I released the fluid pressure in the caliper which freed up the wheel and I was able to ride the short distance home.

Hi, can anyone tell me if the 1972 Interpol frame is the same as the Interstate frame? Due to arthritis, I'm planning on converting my 750 JPN replica to an interstate, with an easier riding position. The JPN replica started off as an Interpol way back. Basically, I need to know if the Interstate  seat and fuel tank will fit properly.Thankyou for your help.