I have a 1971 Roadster. My question- the quick release rear wheel.
When I remove the wheel the brake hub section sits sloppily and moves about laterally despite the left axle nut being tight. Is this normal? Also it is very difficult to fit the wheel back, I replace the speedo drive, then I need to lever that side of the swingarm with a large screwdriver to get the spacer in between then tap it into place using a small hammer. Again is this normal? I have applied rubber grease to the brand new cush-drive rubbers to aid this process. Everything appears normal after this and yes the stub on the brake plate is located in it's slot on the left of the swingarm. Any advice appreciated.
Hello,No experts have…
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Another non-expert replies
Richard's two methods exactly match my own experiences …
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The cushions will break in
That is an excellent idea to fit the wheel sans speedo drive when first using new cushions. It can seem all but impossible to get that final spacer in place. Once the cushions have a few miles on them though, the job usually goes much easier.
However, when the wheel finally does go on with no trouble , the cushions are likely worn out and need replacing, starting the game all over!
Ben English
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When the wheel axle is…
When the wheel axle is removed and the wheel removed from the right the stub axle looses its stability and the rear sprocket drum is free to move around.
I agree its difficult to push the wheel in enough to get the speedo drive and the spacer in place, I usually end up with a tyre iron to push the wheel in to the cush drive.I like the idea above of leaving the drive out first.
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Hello,
No experts have answered your query, so my comments will have to do instead!
I have a 1974 Roadster and have had the same problem, I think that it's quite common. Yes the drum 'sits sloppily'; I don't think it should move laterally but it can be rocked in a pivoting motion. However it is firm once the wheel is in place with its two bearings making it stable. Early models were different.
The wheel is a very tight fit mainly, I think, because the paddles don't very easily push fully into the rubbers. I used to fit it by sitting on the floor with feet against opposite sides of the wheel (very elegant!) but with an emphasise on the rear so as to tilt the wheel a little, right hand pulling on the swinging arm whilst the left hand pushes the spacer part way in place, finishing with the hammer tapping.
Recently I have come up with a variation on the above which, though sounding even more of a faff, actually saves time and loss of blood etc.. I first of all fit the wheel without the speedo drive in place( i.e. omitting gearbox 060627 together with its small spacer NM.13270), but with the long spacer (065273) in place (much easier) then tighten the spindle which pushes the paddles right in. Chock the wheel to keep it upright and stable when I then remove the spindle. Then refit the speedo drive (060627) with its spacer (NM13270)and tighten.
Richard
P.S. If you haven't got a parts book then see Andover Norton's rear wheel diagram on their website.