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Re-torquing cylinder head

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Hello all - my recently rebuilt Commando 920 has done 700 miles and is due for the head to be 're-torqued' - any advice ? e.g. slacken-off each nut individually or all nuts together and then re-tighten etc. The engine runs a treat but there is beginning to be traces of slight oil 'mist' on the fins above the gasket joint.

Thanks

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I have never thought of slackening off before. I cannot see any logic to doing it that way.

I would suggest you simply go through the tightening sequence in the manual, this has worked for me for many years and heads.

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It's my understanding that the 'professional' approach is to loosen off each nut a quarter turn then re-torque to specified figure, dealing with one nut at a time.

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Previously wrote:

Hello all - my recently rebuilt Commando 920 has done 700 miles and is due for the head to be 're-torqued' - any advice ? e.g. slacken-off each nut individually or all nuts together and then re-tighten etc. The engine runs a treat but there is beginning to be traces of slight oil 'mist' on the fins above the gasket joint.

Thanks

hello when I torque my cylinder head down I start in the middel and work out ?

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Slackening each nut a little won't harm and it is a practice used by many car engine builders. However it is probably not necessary. Since it's an 850 head I assume, was it ok before the rebuild as many are known to leak in that area, third fin up due to porosity etc. The 920 uses a copper gasket I believe butlike the std composite with flame rings needs sealing help around the pushrodopenings. Did you (or the builder) use anything there?It's always a good idea.

 


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