English French German Italian Spanish

Kegler clamps

Submitted by julian_wells on Thu, 02/11/2017
Forums
Commando

Ready-made versions of these are offered by NYC Norton

http://nycnorton.com/nyc_products/commando-swingarm-spindle-clamps/

and Holland Norton Works

http://www.hollandnortonworks.eu/en/exclusive-commando-parts

Has anyone tried either of these, and if so what are your impressions?

One issue that concerns me (and of course applies to DIY versions as well) is potential corrosion (admittedly possibly a remote concern given the location next to the chain and under the oil tank ... ).

The NYC Norton version is aluminium/stainless steel; Holland Norton Works don't give any info about this as far as I can see.

Julian

Submitted by john_holmes on Thu, 02/11/2017

Permalink

I bought mine from McMaster Carr in stainless and added stainless bolts and nuts, if you use EP140 to lube the swingarm bushes often then rust is not going to be an issue ð

Submitted by david_evans on Fri, 03/11/2017

Permalink

These are a standard engineering piece of kit. search "double split bearing clamp/ collar" you will have to drill and tap the screw to clamp on to the spindle but cheapish from any bearing supplier. As John Says rust is probably not an issue. An alloy one may not crush the tube down onto the spindle as well as a steel one, and lets face it that is what you are looking to do, stainless items are available

Submitted by julian_wells on Fri, 03/11/2017

Permalink

Deforming the cross-tube doesn't strike this amateur as good engineering, but perhaps I'm missing something.

The version here

http://www.doov.com/apps/nortoncompanion/index.php/upgrades-modifications/4-swingarm-spindle

suggests drilling the cross-tube such that the clamping bolts bear directly on the spindle (and engage the flats for the cotter pins if using a Mk III type spindle).

Previously david_evans wrote:

... An alloy one may not crush the tube down onto the spindle as well as a steel one, and lets face it that is what you are looking to do, stainless items are available

Submitted by john_holmes on Sat, 04/11/2017

Permalink

The tube is too thin so it wallows out, by crushing you restore the fit and the thickness of the clamp stops any more wallowing. The drilling is not needed on tubes that have yet to wallow but it does help those that already have. If something works then that's good enough for me, crude or not and this one fits the works well category.

Submitted by julian_wells on Sat, 04/11/2017

Permalink

John, thanks for this elucidation.

My tube is well-wallowed (0.007" one end, 0.003" the other), so from what you say I take it that drilling is in order, regardless of other advantages, such as the possibility of positive endwise location of the spindle.

I agree that "what works" has much to recommend it, especially since the original design cannot be described as over-engineered.

Submitted by john_holmes on Sat, 04/11/2017

Permalink

You could fit the clamps first without the shaft and tighten up and then insert the shaft to see if it closes the 7 and 3 thou gaps, if it does then no need for the drilling the tube IMHO, all depends on the tube OD and the clamp ID, the tube being mild steel should deform back into shape provided the clamp ID is on the tight side. Mine was not wallowed out so I fitted the clamps without the drilling and tightened the allen bolts that are on the collars tight and then some, and also tightened up the 2 bolts I had added to the clamps, as the bike was not in pieces and with just a few days before a trip I did not want to go further and then find I could not get it back together in time. If your bike is apart and the tube is free to be drilled then go ahead and drill.

Submitted by julian_wells on Sun, 05/11/2017

Permalink

Very helpful insight; the bike's in pieces, partly for other reasons, so drilling's not a problem (interestingly, the spindle's an excellent fit in the bushes, in spite of some previous owner omitting all the parts necessary to contain any oil in the spindle).

Previously john_holmes wrote:

You could fit the clamps first without the shaft and tighten up and then insert the shaft to see if it closes the 7 and 3 thou gaps, if it does then no need for the drilling the tube IMHO, all depends on the tube OD and the clamp ID, the tube being mild steel should deform back into shape provided the clamp ID is on the tight side. Mine was not wallowed out so I fitted the clamps without the drilling and tightened the allen bolts that are on the collars tight and then some, and also tightened up the 2 bolts I had added to the clamps, as the bike was not in pieces and with just a few days before a trip I did not want to go further and then find I could not get it back together in time. If your bike is apart and the tube is free to be drilled then go ahead and drill.

 


Norton Owners Club Website by 2Toucans