Torque

They don't do a lot. The normal spanner size will give roughly the necessary torque provided you don't hurt your hand. The socket set is a dangerous thing...it's too easy to overload small nuts because socket sets only have one length of lever. 1/2" square drives are especially best avoided!  I don't know about anyone else buy I'd never even considered a torque figure for a connection like that. The old fashioned "feel" usually means "this is starting to stretch...I'd better stop now".  Use Loctite if you're worried.

Hi Roger,  from your description  it sounds like you have snapped one of the alternator stator studs by overtightening  the  nut.  The stud  may have been damaged by someone in the past and are  often found to be in poor condition.  I have a memory of ordering studs from all of our suppliers and never getting the right part  , I had to make do with an allen bolt. Its all a learning curve . The nuts were orriginally secured from comming loose with "fan washers" and as David said need  not  be very tight.

Hello Roger,

I torqued up my oil pump studs with a torque wrench I`d bought quite cheaply from somewhere and bust a chunk out of the crankcases.....Great!   I took the torque for calibrating and it was twice what it said on the dial. I would trust your own feel on a spanner rather than a cheap uncalibrated torque wrench or buy a top brand torque wrench if you can run to it. The length of spanners usually equates to something like the right torque if you don`t go ape.

Best regards, Al.

Roger, I trust this is all part of fitting the side stand?  I hope it’s going well. I have spare studs if required, just let me know and I’ll pop them over. Remember if you take the bits apart with a spanner then it will go back with a spanner. You just remember how tight they were to release…

PS: model 50 goes today!

Cheers

Jon

Whatever you do regarding tightening you must not leave the nuts a loose fit. As the fit between the rotor and the stator is set by fiddling those 1/4 inch studs in the 5/16 inch holes in the stator terrible things can (and do) happen if the rotor touches the stator.  By the time that you smell the burning, it's too late.  Also when checking the clearance with a feeler gauge, don't forget that there may be a few thou movement of the drive-side end of the crankshaft, in the roller bearing, to consider when in a stationary position.  Things got so hot in a primary chaincase on an Atlas that i was helping to repair that the crankcases had started to melt. That was an unnecessary expense for the absence of a star washer.  Tighter the better - for those three small nuts. Cheers, Howard 

The orriginal stator on my 99 was a tight fit to the studs and the only way you could "Adjust" the stator/rotor gap was to slightly bend the studs .  The New  alternator I bought is an alarmingly sloppy fit to the orriginal studs as the holes are !/16 "  larger . I was not able to purchase suitable studs so untill I can get some made I have some sleeves created from thin metal strips . I also had to make a spacer to centralise the rotor in the stator and  cut out part of the encapsulation to give room for the leads which fouled the outer case.  .  All expected actions now that "parts are made to a higher standard"   !!!.

Robert. Just sent you a private message 

Regards

Tony

This is available from the Andover Norton Web Site

N O R TO N  C O M M A N D O  TO R Q U E  S E T T I N G S

 Description                                           Part No.                  Torque Setting

Alternator mounting stud nuts             06.2692                      15lbs/ft

Possibly they use larger studs for mounting the Commando Alternator.

I would certainly not torque the nuts for these studs above 12lbs/ft on my bike.