Rear wheel retaining nuts

If you mean the cotton reel type hub, I have a 3/8" drive socket that with 2 long extensions on will pass through the holes in the hub and let me tighten them pretty dammed tight. Don't tell anyone but I use an 11mm socket too. I have also used a whitworth combination spanner with some success before I realised the socket would fit.

Ian

Previously George Phillips wrote:

Cheers Ian. I tried something like that but the speedo drive partly blocks the holes opposite the nuts. George

Why don't you remove the rear wheel spindle then remove the speedo gearbox , replace the spindle without the speedo gearbox,use a socket and an extension to tighten the sleeve nuts a bit of loftier here won't hurt,then when happy remove spindle and re- assemble.I assume you have ensured that ensured that no paint or powdercoat material is between the mating surfaces to ensure metal to metal contact.sorry if there seems to a interruption in this text but it has been masked by the upcoming events panel,so I can't check the continuity of my text!!!!

Previously jim_hill wrote:

Previously George Phillips wrote:

Cheers Ian. I tried something like that but the speedo drive partly blocks the holes opposite the nuts. George

Why don't you remove the rear wheel spindle then remove the speedo gearbox , replace the spindle without the speedo gearbox,use a socket and an extension to tighten the sleeve nuts a bit of loftier here won't hurt,then when happy remove spindle and re- assemble.I assume you have ensured that ensured that no paint or powdercoat material is between the mating surfaces to ensure metal to metal contact.sorry if there seems to a interruption in this text but it has been masked by the upcoming events panel,so I can't check the continuity of my text!!!!

FOR LOFTIER READ LOCTITE ,!

Webmaster, please can you rectify the problem regarding the"upcoming events " panel masking the text field when replying to comments ! Jim hill

I've always thought the design was a weak point. On the cotton reel hubs, once the nuts get slightly loose then the countersinks they fit into wear and the nuts can never be tightened properly. On the Commando, if the nuts are a bit loose then the studs can move in the brake drum.

I know the answer is to check them regularly.......

I've been trying to understand this problem. Was it an unforeseen consequence of a design change - that onlyaffects a small number of years? My 1937 bike has the four sleeve bolts on the right of the front hub, and the brake drum is on the left withthe speedo drive emerging from it. So any simple spanner will fit.

Either the WD manual or Franks's book suggests they be drilled and lock wired.

George,

To make sure I don't lose the sleeve nuts I've drilled a small hole though the hexagon head and then inserted a small "R" after the nuts are done up. The R clip will stop the nut unscrewing, and is quicker to take off than using tying wire.

I've noticed that there are two different tapers used on Norton sleeve nuts, the early ones, like on my 1955 ES2 are at a steeper angle than the later ones on the full width hub of my Mercury. Make sure you're using the correct ones.

Phil.

Previously George Phillips wrote:

Forgive my dumbness this morning Phil, but do you drill through both the retained bolt and the nut? I'm picturing how the "R" spring would stop the nut loosening.having trouble. Mine's '55 also so thanks for the info on the taper. I was unaware of that. George

George,

Just drill through the hexagon head, then the little R pin pushes through and is long enough to stop the sleeve nut undoing. If it undoes it'll be loose but you won't lose it. Strangely, I've never lost any of my nuts or themcoming loose, but my Dad who used to do trials with a 500T suggested that they should be wired on. I'll try and take a photo for you tonight.

Phil.

Previously George Phillips wrote:

Forgive my dumbness this morning Phil, but do you drill through both the retained bolt and the nut? I'm picturing how the "R" spring would stop the nut loosening.having trouble. Mine's '55 also so thanks for the info on the taper. I was unaware of that. George

George I think the head or tail of the "R" clip hits the cotton reel and therefore will not rotate. If you need any of the tube nuts let me know. I have some spare.

Serrated washers might do the trick also... .... especially if you think the taper is bottoming out before the flange is tight.

Cheers

Jon

George,

I'll try and attach a photo of the sleeve nut and R pin. The R pin is 35mm overall length.

Phil.

Previously George Phillips wrote:

Having lost yet another sleeve nut from the rear wheel (fortunately now replaced) I'm wondering if anyone has any bright ideas for tightening these fairly inaccessible nuts.

My method this time was to fit an open ended spanner over the nut pointing towards the rear of the bike, place a long bar or tyre lever under the spanner and at right angles to the line of the bike and heave upwards.

Anyone got a better idea?

Cheers

George

Hello try a 1/4 inch box spanner that fit ok fit a socketon the other end yours anna j

i would also check to see if theres any paint or similar between the mating surfaces. the nuts will loosen off if there is