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Oil change - now or later?

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Hi ladies and gents,

My Commando Mk111 has now done just over 3000 miles since a complete rebuild, should I give her an oil change now before storing for the winter or wait until I wake her up in the spring?

(I am using Lucas fully synthetic for oil changes).

Many thanks.

Jake.

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Do it now, else all the microscopic bits of carbon and acidic byproducts of combustion will have a nice time settling out on the insides of the engine. With 3000miles from a rebuild I would have thought it would need a change now anyway.

Another bonus is that when you get one of those occasional bright and sunny late winter days you can go for a ride without having to mess about doing an oil change first.

George.

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Hi George,

Thanks for that, I ran her in on bog standard 20 W 40 for 500 miles, I than did an oil and filter change and put in Lucas fully synthetic.

Jake.

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Hi Jake - I would have thought that changing to fully synthetic after only 500 miles might be a bit soon. Fully synthetic oil can inhibit proper bedding-in due to it being too good at lubrication.

Just a thought - - -

Mark Woodward.

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Always change gearbox oil before winter, so that water which invariable gets in will not rust the gears. Shouldn't apply to the engine since the oil should get hot enough to boil off any water. Lucas make oil now? I thought they just made electric products.

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Previously wrote:

Always change gearbox oil before winter, so that water which invariable gets in will not rust the gears. Shouldn't apply to the engine since the oil should get hot enough to boil off any water. Lucas make oil now? I thought they just made electric products.

I don't think it is the same i.e. Joseph Lucas (Prince of darkness) but Lucas oils are an American range.

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Many of the fully synth oils don't contain the right anti-wear additives needed for the poorly lubed flat cam followers that our old bikes have, also the cam tunnel oil bath feature is now mostly lost on commando's.

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If the bike is going to be stored for the winter, or any other length of time; I would get it good & hot, drain the oil (including removing the sump plug). If you fill with clean oil now, there is every chance that a lot of it will seep down into the sump. Next spring, it may be hard to start, and will probably blow at lot of oil out of the breather before the pump has scavenged the sump.

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The advantage of leaving oil in your bike is that it is ready to go if you have occasion to take it out over winter. In over 40 years of owning my Norton, it has never been taken off the road in winter, despite my best intentions, and it shows. But when I have the sudden need to take a bike out I know the Norton will rise to the occasion. Annual gearbox oil changes. Gosh, I suppose I should. I must be about 30 oil changes behind I reckon...

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Gordon - are you completely MAD? You can't take a bike out in Winter! It will get too cold and never speak to you again! Don't you live in a cold part of Britain way up north, where they get SNOW?? :)

Why use hyper-expensive, fully synthetic oil? I have no choice for my Jag, but it sounds dangerous for a bike, especiallyif you're doing it to save oil changes and I'm not convinced it has the right lube characteristics for an old British bike.

John, are you suggesting that you should drain the oil and leave it empty just to avoid it draining into the sump? That seems a bit perverse and dodgy to me when you could just undo the sump plug and drain any whenever you re-commission the bike. It shouldn't be difficult. Get a sump plug with an oil drain if you need to make it easier (expensive though).

Cheers, Lionel

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Dammit Lionel, my secret is out. I am indeed completely mad. But of course a spot of craziness does help if one is going to indulge in a passion for obsolete motorcycles. But perhaps a hint of sanity is creeping in - I am taking the Norton for its MoT tomorrow when, hopefully, the rain and gales might have eased. The roads there will still be flooded though... Not sure that thin synthetic oils are the best for the old bikes. I generally use Morris or Castrol Classic 20-50 (the 8 months of winter) or SAE 40 / XXL (the 4 remaining months of bad weather). Last hint for winter riding - fit electrically heated handlebar grips. Just wonderful, but didn't help much when I rode the bike in a kilt to a Hogmanay party...

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I use Lucas Fully synth in my Commando and T160, at around £30 for 5 litres, it isn't that much dearer than Morris Goldenfilm.Had a long conversation with Lucas at a show a few years ago when I asked about the additives, particularly ZDDP essential for old flat tappet motors, and was assured their oil contained adequate quantitites. I also use my Norton in the winter, but for really bad (Northern) weather I have an MZ Scorpion.

sam

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Hi Lionel, well, I don't think it perverse. When the fine day comes, and you want to use the bike again, it is much quicker just to fill the oil tank. Mind you, I don't adopt this procedure myself. Here is Spain, it seldom stays cold for long enough to lay the bike up at all! However, this year, I trailed the bike back to Kent, got it M.O.T.'d, gave it a good run, then did drain the oil, and left it empty. This was because I was leaving the bike in the U.K. until the Begonia rally. It's not all fun in Spain, in the summer it gets too HOT to ride! John.

 


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