1959 Norton Model 50
I have recently converted this bike to 12v. The new lucas 200w alternator is producing power but this is not reaching the battery. As part of the conversion I have fitted a new single phase regulator/rectifier, new coil,new bulbs, condenser& points. All this from Paul Goff.
When I turn the ignition on the ammeter shows a negative reading. With engine running the ammeter appears to 'zero' but does not register any positive reading, and the headlight shows no increase in brightness. The voltage measured at the battery does not increase.
I realise it is difficult to diagnose wiring problems remotely but I'd like to ask the following questions:
Could the problem be the malfunctioning of the regulator/rectifier ? It has four wires coming from it. The two yellow wires are connected to the two wires from the alternator. The red wire is connected to earth and the black is live. The live is, or should be, connected to the battery via the ammeter. This is achieved by connecting into the existing loom.This could be the problem, but if the ammeter shows a discharge when the ignition is turned on, doesn't this prove connectivity in terms of the charge live voltage coming from the rectifier ?
Or, could there be a fault with the actual ammeter, or the connectivity of the ammeter via the switch mounted in the headlight ?
Any/all suggestions welcome ?
Thanks,
Mike Haworth
It sounds to me that your…
- Log in to post comments
The "live" wire from the r…
The "live" wire from the regulator should go to the same side of the ammeter as the load (ignition switch etc) - the opposite side to the battery connection. You may have it on the battery connection which would probably give the results you're seeing.
- Log in to post comments
Hi Ian, I agree with your…
Hi Ian, I agree with your comments re regulator & load connections on one side of the ammeter and battery connection on the other. I am less sure of what you said next. If the regulator and battery connections were on the same side of the ammeter then certainly charging current would not be measured, but all the load current, whether coming from the battery or regulator, would have to pass through the ammeter which would always read negative.
Cheers, Ian McD
- Log in to post comments
That is of course true - s…
That is of course true - sorry for misleading anyone.....
What voltage do you see at the battery? It would also be worth measuring it at the output of the regulator (disconnected from the ammeter to get a true reading*). When the engine is running at a reasonable speed you should see 14 volts or more at both.
I find it strange that the ammeter shows a discharge with engine stopped but goes to the centre point with it running yet not increasing battery voltage.
Of course you have checked all terminals and connections....
*depending on the type of regulator this may not be a good idea but most should handle open circuit.
- Log in to post comments
My 12v ES2 did this (Ammet…
My 12v ES2 did this (Ammeter needle to the centre when running only) the point is that ignition only, especially on points uses a minute amount of power. You may not notice the ever so slight discharge. Joe Lucas took the blame for my lack of charge when in fact it should have been Boyer. The power box failed. I would assume that it was the rectifier element of the box that failed as none charging of the battery is or can be associated with a failed rectifier, Others may know better.
A new power box intended for another project (A long running saga) fixed the problem after everything else was changed or tested. I now know that Boyer can fail beyond repair.
Hope this helps.
- Log in to post comments
It sounds to me that your charging circuit is working OK. Registering negative amps with ignition on is a good start. What happens with lights on and engine stopped? If that is also negative it would appear that the ammeter is correctly wired. Zero amps with lights on and engine running suggests that the generator is supplying the requested load. If the battery was already fully charged the regulator would not need to deliver any more current to the battery hence the zero reading. If you are still concerned talking to Paul Goff would seem like a sensible move.
Ian McD