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Leaky head...

Submitted by paul_smith on Sunday, 1 April, 2012 - 01:00
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Commando

Hi all,

My '72 Roadster has been getting more and more oily over the last few months a after a short trip today I can take no more.

The oil seems to be coming from two areas - on the LH side just below the exhaust nut and at the back centre of the head just below the carb manifold (single carb).

I've attempted to remove the head, but struggeling with the space and push rod tubes - I've read a few threads on the forum about elastic bands and paper towels, I assume a second pair of hands would also be good.

Once I removed the carb and bits - I actually found a pool of oil sitting in the well just below the carb manifold, this is the source of the oil covering the carb and filter when I ride the bike.

So - apologies if this has been cover various times - but how exactly do I remove the head, as gravity seems to be against me, plus any tricks or tips for getting the plot back together when I reach that happy moment?

Thanks - Paul.

Submitted by keith_glassborow on Monday, 2 April, 2012 - 01:00

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Is there no-one near that can help? What's your location paul?

Sounds like your leaks could be from the pushrod tube area and possibly failed/dislodged intake seal or seals. The seals can come off the guides or just perish I guess. In extreme cases over compression of the valve retainer when replacing springs etc can damage the seal (the retainer crushes it).

Best way to remove the head is to remove the front ISO, dropping the engine and giving a lot more vertical space forhead removal. Make sure all nuts and bolts are out/off, all 10 and tap the exhaustand inlet area of head to loosen if its stuck. Get a piece of 2x2 batten or similar to hold the head off the barrel while you manipulate the push rods. The exhaust rodswill push right up into the head if the rockers are pivotted valve end up. The inlet rods can then be pushed up as high as they will go. They are longer so these will always stick out more. Elastic bands will hold in place. You can then lift and tip the head up at the rear and everything should clear. Alternatively with the engine dropped forward (no ISO mount) it is possible to push the rods up into the head, twist the head slightly to one side and allow the pushrods to drop out. Repeat for other side.

Same goes for replacement but once the head is off it is just as easy to make sure they are into the head as far as possible and reverse the process, tilting it forwards, locating each set of rods in their tunnel and lowering into position. You will need to manipulate the rockers onto the rods and make sure they are before torquing down.

Couple of other things....remove the coil assys of course, use a little gasket sealant (Hylomar, Wellseal or smear of RTV) both sides of gasket around pushrod tubes. Use a proper Victor Reinz composition gasket from Andover N and torque after running a few minutes, 50, 100 and 500 miles. Its a pain to remove the tank and coils each time but worth it.

Submitted by paul_smith on Monday, 2 April, 2012 - 01:01

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Keith,

Thanks for all the info - I have the head lifted, but not enough room so far to slide out to one side - I'll try the above.

I live in a village called Upper Beeding between Brighton and Worthing on the South Coast.

Regards - Paul.

Submitted by alan_dawes on Tuesday, 3 April, 2012 - 01:00

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Previously wrote:

Keith,

Thanks for all the info - I have the head lifted, but not enough room so far to slide out to one side - I'll try the above.

I live in a village called Upper Beeding between Brighton and Worthing on the South Coast.

Regards - Paul.

Paul,

I am in Storrington. Happy to pop over any time.

Cheers

Alan

Submitted by keith_glassborow on Tuesday, 3 April, 2012 - 01:02

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Previously wrote:

Keith,

Thanks for all the info - I have the head lifted, but not enough room so far to slide out to one side - I'll try the above.

I live in a village called Upper Beeding between Brighton and Worthing on the South Coast.

Regards - Paul.

I'm in Fleet, Hants but looks like you have local help. Good luck and hope you sort the problem.

Rgds Keith

Submitted by paul_smith on Sunday, 8 April, 2012 - 01:00

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Alan came around yesterday to help - we took out the front Iso bolt and pushed the engine down a good inch and backed off all the tappet adjusters, even so getting the push rods to clear the top of the barrel was still a pain but they came out one by one.

I've replaced the head gasket, holding the push rods in place with bands made from old inner tube, cutting them off once the head was about 1/2 inch from the top of the barrel - seemed to work OK and ensuring the top of the push rods are in their cups. It all bolted down OK and started second kick - it was becoming diffecult to start, so maybe the blowing head gasket was also impacting its ability to start well.

If it stays fine tomorrow I'll go for a blast - hopefully sorted.

Regards - Paul.

 



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