I have a nos WD iron rear hub shell, and am preparing to assemble it as a hub for use on a road bike. It has not been machined for a speedo drive gearbox.
The outside of the left bearing housing is 2", the '50s drive gearboxes are 1.925" internal diameter. Is it OK simply to turn down the outside diameter of the bearing housing so the speedo gearbox is a sllding fit, and cut a pair of notches for the drive dogs?
I have a very nice speedo gearbox, 2:1 ratio, but has a .44" axle hole. The Norton bearing spacer tube which I have to hand (it is not necessarily correct for this hub) is for a 9/16" axle. Is that diameter correct also for a featherbed? The flanges on the bearing spacer are approximately 0.15" wider than the bearing bores in the hub - does that mean I should shorten the bearing spacer tube to match the hub so that there is no end pressure?
I have a pair of rubber-seal bearings, 6303RS and 4203RS. Can they simply be pressed in, or do they need to have a lock ring / cover plate?
Lots of questions....
Paul
Not sure about the speedo…
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So I need to get a threade…
So I need to get a threaded lock ring for the right side (anyone know a source?), and shorten the bearing spacer tube a bit, around .1" so it's a little longer than the width between bearings.
I'm hoping to find a finned rear drum which was (I think) only used on early Manx, before the cast magnesium rear hub came out. And an alloy 7" brake plate.
Paul
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Not sure about the speedo drive but it sounds feasible provided the dimensions work out.
The bearing spacer tube should be very slightly longer than the distance between the abutments for the outer races so that when the spindle is tightened the whole lot formas a solid assembly without putting any side load on the bearings. One bearing (the single row end) has a lock ring so the outer is positively located; the bearing at the other end doesn't so it can find its own position.