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Finding neutral and ignition warning light

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I just installed the Sparx 3-phase alternator on my Mk III and it runs great with the Sparx electronic ignition I already installed. It charges around 14.5 volts when the headlight is off, but the ignition light on the console doesn't go out, or even flicker, when the bike is running. Shouldn't this light go out when charging voltage is higher than battery voltage? When installing the Sparx alternator I kept the "Ignition light assimilator" assembly intact but removed the existing rectifier, regulator, alternator, etc. per the installation instructions...Also, the only way I can get my bike into neutral is by downshifting into neutral from second as I coast up to a traffic light, and this doesn't always work. If I'm stopped, forget it, I can't get it to drop in from first or second. Is there a trick to finding neutral, or is this an indication of something worn in the transmission, or what?

Thanks for any help at all, Adlai Jourdin

1975 USA Commando Mk III electric start

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Hi,

If you search this site for 'Sparx 3 phase alternator and regulator' you will find someone else has had this problem and it was fixed with help from Al Oz. Have a read and follow the advice.

As regards the finding neutral question, this is a classic clutch drag problem. You need to make sure that everything in the line from handlebar to pressure plate are adjusted as per the manual. it is NOT just a case of having a bit of slack at the handlebar end. Also what oil are you using in the primary chaincase. I always use ATF and the clutch does not drag. well maybe very slightly from cold.

Could also be the clutch not built correctly with numbers of plates etc. is it standard ?

Regards

Tony

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A couple of points specific to the Mk111 850 - ATF is not a good idea in the primary chaincase as it drains out of the automatic tensioner almost faster than you can pour it into the reservoir. There are no seals on the plungers.Difficulty selecting neutral on Mk111s can also be exacerbated by the neutral lamp switch being screwed in too far. It can bear on the raised dome on the cam plate and act as a sort of 'anti-detent' in that it will always push the cam one way. The switch should be set so that it just operates.As Tony says though, common or garden clutch drag is the most likely cause and a strip and clean of the clutch if it hasn't been done recently will be worthwhile and allow you to check the condition of the components. Bronze Commando clutches hardly wear on the friction surfaces but the inner splines can wear like shark's teeth and if this is combined with a worn centre, it will be reluctant to free off.

 


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