1935 ES2

Previously robert_tuck wrote: Hi Robert appreciate your honesty and this is the sort of info i was after. Thanks best regarads Clive

If thats the look you want ,then fine,just don't use it on the cylinder.It is however not the "right" finish for the period. It also allows rust to travel under, is hard to touch up ,and is often applied without enough "prep" and shows all the pitting .I think it detracts from the value of the machine,but we all think differently anyway!.

Previously Dan Field wrote: Hi Dan thanks for the info, will have a good think about this before making a decision and do the right prep 1st Thanks and best regards Clive

A number of my bikes are powder coated, and I'm very happy with them, the frames are black and easy to touch up. I prefer the look of powder coat to very shiney 2 pack, but agree that cellulose would look better, if you can find any! As with anything it's the preparation that is the key, if your frame is pitted then you may want to fill them out, in which case you'll need to paint it.

I think powder coat over a pitted frame is not a good look!

Dan

Thanks for the info Guys and will do all the prep then decide on best course of action when all clean and rust free.Best regards Clive

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Would anyone recognise the make of sidecar? as i do have this as well. Thanks Clive

Previously les_howard wrote:Hi Les thanks for the info, and as you say i have been warned taking it all onboard regards Clive

Powder coating is OK on the frame but all tin-ware should be stoved or 2K'd simply because powder coating is far too thick and can cause massive problems when trying to fit tool box lids and headlights back on the headlamp shell (you have been warned!)

Make sure, and I appreciate it's not easy, get your powder coater to spray the frame with a rustproofing coat before baking on the powder. Many SAY they will but they lie, and simply transfer the blasted frame straight into the powder coating shop. They know you are not likely to remove the powder coat to check but you CAN check by selecting areas they need the coat removed around bolt holes for example. ....Les

Previously robert_tuck wrote: Thanks Robert will do

If you do decide on powder best check what prep is acceptable to the coaters.

Previously dave_graham1 wrote: Thanks Dave, i also have had parts powder coated and the finish as you say is v good. Soda blasting is kinder than bead or shot blasting, but will carefully choose the parts to be done. Best regards Clive

I've recently had a frame and many black parts powder coated. The finish is good and hard wearing as I've knocked a few parts while in the garage and they haven't chipped. Also, while doing up nuts and bolts tight is hasn't chipped and broken like the last bike I did in 2 pack paint. The only thing I didn't like was the bead blasting was a bit course as I think the company I used are more used to doing iron gates etc. Once I realised this, I stripped some parts myself. Don't get your oil tank bead blasted, no matter how well they mask it, it will still be full of grit. I washed and washed my tank 5 or 6 times in hot soapy water, then paraffin and I could still find grit in it. So paint strip that yourself.

Thanks everyone, still awaiting more boxes of parts and engine and gearbox then a period of sussing out any missing bits and then work out what i need then to start sorting the de rusting and prep etc etc .

Many thanks Clive

Previously tony_baxter wrote:

Interesting thread. For what it's worth, Sammy Miller uses paint on his frames when restoring and powder coat for the brackets etc. A lot of people I know are wary of using powder on the frame due to 'rust creep' over a long period. It may depend on how much you use the bike, and in what conditions. If it's a daily rider and you expect to own it long term, you may certainly think paint is safest on the frame. I would.

I have a Triumph with tinware that was professionally painted by the previous owner in 2-pack, it does chip quite easily at the bolt holes, especially as I have had to take the 1/2 tubs on and off several times.

Cellulose is more flexible if I remember correctly. And by the way, there is no problem getting cellulose these days, just Google it, plenty of suppliers. Just tried, and got 5 suppliers on the first page! Most though will insist you give them a registration number as it is only for classic/vintage vehicles.

By the way, that bike and sidecar is gorgeous ! I hope you still have the sidecar. What is it, a Noxal perhaps ?

Hi Tony and thanks, still unsure on the make of sidecard. Poss SS but hoping to collect the remainder of parts saturday so will keep you posted. Cheers Clive

Previously paul_standeven wrote:Thanks Paul all info gratefully received, although i have been in the motor trade since 1978 it is always good to get other peoples ideas and views as not everyone knows everything. Thanks Clive

I suggest doing a dry-build, make sure all the parts are present, repaired and fit each other, and you have got suitable fixings all sorted. (Very often, a substitute for a missing or trashed part is not an exact fit, and requires other parts to be adapted to fit around it.) Then do a restoration and get the paint and plate done. If that's going to be a while, slosh some primer on things to prevent corrosion.