Pre 1928 Model 18 Flat tankers

Do you have George Cohen's "Flat Tank Norton"? It's probably as good a place to start as any other. They are light, low and feel long (the greyhounds of the day) and can be fast. The front brake went up to a respectable 7" in the last couple of years. Probably good for you since from your posts you live somewhere hilly. Prices are much the same as for an Inter...perhaps more...and they need a bit of sympathy to ride.  Most have total loss oiling so not very friendly if you park on the York Stone paving outside your country stately home. The flat tank16H should show a clean pair of heels to a WD 16H.

My old friend had a model 18 I rode a few times. I think the rocker gear had some design quirks...I seem to remember he changed the rocker pillars for something more robust. And the clutch retaining nut came loose once. As the Norton handbook said...Nortons never go wrong unless the rider doesn't look after them properly. Just like a Commando allegedly.

I use my model 18 fairly regularly but not as a daily driver.

I could use it to commute if I had no other options and it usually does 1500 miles or so a year.

You can get upwards of 50mph vibration free cruising but to get to the 80mph plus top end on brakes that are at best feeble and with rigid suspension and beaded edge tyres takes guts.

They are a wonderful thing and not difficult to maintain and repair. You will meet many nice people and get pleasure in the magnetism to passers by it creates.

If you stop anywhere plan to have to talk for at least 15 minutes before you set off again.

Nice model 18s can be had for £20k, rough ones at £10 to £15k.

A rough 16h for £7000 or £8000 or a nice one at 12 to 15.

Big fours fetch less. They are more sedate and rarely seen out and about now. Ideal for sidecar use.

You have to ride one to understand what they are about and you will love the experience. How much you would use one is down to your own personal preference and other bikes.

I have a few bikes, if it's nice I go out on my model 18 if it's not I may use my model 50 or the KTM

Steve

I have kept a close eye on the flat tank market and think you may struggle to buy within Stephens suggested pricing parameters. Demand has generally exceeded supply and vendors, whether private sellers or dealers seem to be aware of this.

Best of luck with your search.

You can overpay certainly but privately prices have edged back in the last 12 months.

If I had cash burning a hole in my pocket, which I do not, I am confident I could within my suggested budget achieve a purchase of the three options Tom is looking at.

Auction results have even softened.

Steve

Thomas,

Whichever flat tanker you go for, check that the petrol tank holds petrol without leaking or seeping.  My late 1927 tank started with a seep (over the mag) but on stripping the paint off the bottom of the tank I found about 70 holes!  Some of these were bigger than pin holes where a pencil could be pushed through.  All of these tanks are at least 90 years old, so are likely to have suffered ageing.

I've tried some soldering repairs, then lining the tank, but have not had much luck with the lining process.  To get the lining to adhere properly the inside of the tank needs vigorous agitation to clean the inside surfaces, but this is likely to end up making more holes.

Therefore, with advice from Stephen I've decided to have a new tank made as I want to ride it rather than look at it!  Work is in progress on the new tank and the chap making them will make more than one.  I do not have prices yet.  So when you go to buy a machine please ask the vendor to run the engine so that you can check the tank is fuel tight.  Also, take a good torch to inspect the inside of the tank.

I'm sure you're on the cusp of a new adventure; have fun.  When you move to Devon then you must come to Somerset and meet four or five other Model 18 owners.

Phil makes a good point about petrol tanks but even more important particularly if a matching numbers bike is crankcase damage and corrosion at the bottom.

Really difficult to weld so make sure they are ok.

Tanks are expensive to replicate or repair and each frame is a different shape so one tank will not always fit another frame.

Shape of the top frame rail should closely follow the top of the tank which is not always the case with replicated tanks I have seen.

In fact I've seen some awful attempts!

A well made authentic looking new tank will cost upwards of £1000 so factor this into a purchase cost.

I have made tanks for my bikes in both steel and Aluminium.

Much easier in Aluminium but not strictly correct

If you get one to look at, ask one of the guys in the know to look with you.

Webb's Handle well.

Better damped in late 20s

Druids are week and undamped.

Mk 2 druids on big four are designed to move fore and aft as well as up and down.

Crap idea for a solo but ok on a sidecar.

Round tube druids on late side valves are stronger but still out performed by Webbs

Pre 1924 the drip feed oilers were used.

Basically a plunger to pull oil out of a tank and a regulator and sight glass to control number of drips per minute fed into crankcases onto the crank.

Post 1925 ( I think), best and Lloyd mechanical pumps were used. You could also use a plunger tell tale to be sure oil is being pumped.

1928 was a different best and Lloyd pump with a sight glass and oil feed without external pipes feeding to the cam followers.

Cs1 and dry sump ES2 from 1927 to 1930 were a level adjustable semi dry sump type with an odd cam system driving a plunger pump. Still very Heath Robinson.

1930 ohv and sv saw another type of best and Lloyd pump and oil feed via drillings in the timing cover.

1931 saw positive feed to the crank via a brass or  bronze quill and also scavenge or dry sump type lubrication, this pump is a gear pump and differs from the 1932 onward pump slightly. ( Flatter body to fit in the timing cover)