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model 18 clutch set up

Submitted by stuart_hall on Thursday, 1 January, 2026 - 16:04
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hi, I'm looking for some advice on clutch setup on my 1936 model 18. I sometimes find it a bit tricky getting neutral and was thinking of trying 2 less plates in the clutch to make a bit more free play with the clutch lifted. Also I have seen on another post that the clutch spring nuts should be fully tightened as the flat head on the pushrod will ensure that the clutch will lift squarely. Is this correct? I would appreciate any thoughts on this.  Thanks Stuart

Submitted by steven_morris1 on Thursday, 1 January, 2026 - 17:05

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Hi Stuart,

Ive just asked a similar question, If your clutch has 3 springs, then yes they should be tight, I think! Has your clutch got a central adjuster on the pressure plate? If so It may be different, check my thread re gearbox issues you may find the answer in there?

Steve.

Hi Steven, thanks for that. I've had a good look through the various handbooks for various years and found one that clearly states that the clutch spring nuts are to be fully tightened so that confirms that. Some of these older handbooks tend to assume that you already have some technical knowledge and specific settings can take some finding. Thanks for your input and when it gets warm enough to get in the workshop I'll have a good look at the clutch. Cheers Stuart

I always "tune" the plates. With a tyrip i hold clutchlever max. Opened.  I keep a 1mm strip between the outside and 1 metal plate. And screw the bolts in as much as the 1mm strip is still sliding.  Works always ok. 
br. Rob

Submitted by stuart_hall on Saturday, 10 January, 2026 - 20:18

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Hi Rob, that sounds like a good method to get the pressure plate running true, I'll try it when I get to setting up. thanks for the info, cheersStuart

Submitted by richard_payne on Friday, 2 January, 2026 - 17:49

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You're fortunate in that the WD6H is effectively a 1936 model and the wartime Maintenance and Instruction Manuals provide more detail than the pre-war handbooks. 

 Page 27 here states: "Fit clutch spring pins. Tighten right home"

https://www.wdnorton.nl/Downloads/16h%20M&I%20manual%20200dpi%20by%20courtesy%20of.pdf

Norton (and some other midlands industries) always referred to set-screws as "pins". 

The set-up does rely on having equal-length springs with roughly equivalent poundage and this can be  a problem with mix and match clutches. 

Rather than removing plates, if the clutch is not showing sufficient lift, have a look at the handlebar levers. The Doll's Head box has quite a slow worm for operating the clutch and lever centres (pivot to cable nipple centre) of 1" or less will not give enough lift. 1 1/16" or 1 1/8" centres will give appreciably more lift. 

Hi Richard, thanks for your reply, definately some usefull points there. My springs are new from the club so should be OK but I have been setting the pressure plate run out with the spring nuts as per every other clutch I've come across before which is incorrect and they should be locked down as you say. I have also found that info in one of my own handbooks, mid 1950s I think so will correct that. I have checked my clutch lever and it does have only 1'' spacing on the pivot centres so will have a play with some different levers , might even just swap it with the brake which is 11/8''. I'm up in Orkney and buried in snow at the moment so can't do much till the weather improves but I'll let you know how I get on,
        thanks for your help,Stuart

 



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