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model 18 clutch set up

Submitted by stuart_hall on Thursday, 1 January, 2026 - 16:04
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hi, I'm looking for some advice on clutch setup on my 1936 model 18. I sometimes find it a bit tricky getting neutral and was thinking of trying 2 less plates in the clutch to make a bit more free play with the clutch lifted. Also I have seen on another post that the clutch spring nuts should be fully tightened as the flat head on the pushrod will ensure that the clutch will lift squarely. Is this correct? I would appreciate any thoughts on this.  Thanks Stuart

Submitted by steven_morris1 on Thursday, 1 January, 2026 - 17:05

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Hi Stuart,

Ive just asked a similar question, If your clutch has 3 springs, then yes they should be tight, I think! Has your clutch got a central adjuster on the pressure plate? If so It may be different, check my thread re gearbox issues you may find the answer in there?

Steve.

Hi Steven, thanks for that. I've had a good look through the various handbooks for various years and found one that clearly states that the clutch spring nuts are to be fully tightened so that confirms that. Some of these older handbooks tend to assume that you already have some technical knowledge and specific settings can take some finding. Thanks for your input and when it gets warm enough to get in the workshop I'll have a good look at the clutch. Cheers Stuart

I always "tune" the plates. With a tyrip i hold clutchlever max. Opened.  I keep a 1mm strip between the outside and 1 metal plate. And screw the bolts in as much as the 1mm strip is still sliding.  Works always ok. 
br. Rob

Submitted by stuart_hall on Saturday, 10 January, 2026 - 20:18

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Hi Rob, that sounds like a good method to get the pressure plate running true, I'll try it when I get to setting up. thanks for the info, cheersStuart

Submitted by richard_payne on Friday, 2 January, 2026 - 17:49

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You're fortunate in that the WD6H is effectively a 1936 model and the wartime Maintenance and Instruction Manuals provide more detail than the pre-war handbooks. 

 Page 27 here states: "Fit clutch spring pins. Tighten right home"

https://www.wdnorton.nl/Downloads/16h%20M&I%20manual%20200dpi%20by%20courtesy%20of.pdf

Norton (and some other midlands industries) always referred to set-screws as "pins". 

The set-up does rely on having equal-length springs with roughly equivalent poundage and this can be  a problem with mix and match clutches. 

Rather than removing plates, if the clutch is not showing sufficient lift, have a look at the handlebar levers. The Doll's Head box has quite a slow worm for operating the clutch and lever centres (pivot to cable nipple centre) of 1" or less will not give enough lift. 1 1/16" or 1 1/8" centres will give appreciably more lift. 

Hi Richard, thanks for your reply, definately some usefull points there. My springs are new from the club so should be OK but I have been setting the pressure plate run out with the spring nuts as per every other clutch I've come across before which is incorrect and they should be locked down as you say. I have also found that info in one of my own handbooks, mid 1950s I think so will correct that. I have checked my clutch lever and it does have only 1'' spacing on the pivot centres so will have a play with some different levers , might even just swap it with the brake which is 11/8''. I'm up in Orkney and buried in snow at the moment so can't do much till the weather improves but I'll let you know how I get on,
        thanks for your help,Stuart

Hi again Richard, 
    Managed to get into the workshop so a quick update. I tried the two different levers and found very little difference in the amount of lift but as you say the gearing on the worm is very low, however I did opt for the 11/8" lever and measured the lift which was only 1.25mm at full lift which is not a lot spread over 11 plates, 5 friction and 6 steel, I have inspected the worm and there doesn't seem to be any excessive end play but I'm not sure this would really matter once the play is adjusted, but have found and ordered a complete worm assembly so will see if that is any better. Also machined up new clutch spring bolts to the type which lock down solid. I found that taking a pair of plates out was too much but have tried taking just one friction plate out and leaving two steels under the pressure plate and it now frees much better so will try it as soon as weather permits and let you know how I get on. 
                                   cheers Stuart

Hi Richard,
        Have done a 10 mile test run today and the clutch seems fine, freeing nicely and definate free play at the lever, no slip under full power and easy to get neutral from 1st or 2nd so I'm pretty happy with it now, thanks again for your input with this.
.     Cheers Stuart

Hi Robert,
     I have 6 steels and 5 friction which I believe is standard, but have seen on another similar post that modern bonded plates are slightly thicker than the older cork type. 

I have built it back up with one friction plate less but had to leave the top steel one in which leaves two steels under the pressure plate and used type of clutch spring bolts that tighten down solid. The clutch now frees nicely and I've done a 10 mile test run today , there is no slip when accelerating hard and neutral is easy to get from either 1st or 2nd gear so am pretty happy with it.

 



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