torque figures

Yes, it opened for me, including when I copied and pasted the URL into the toolbar. Lots of useful torque figures, but oddly I could not find cam sprocket, oil pump worm or gearbox lower mounting stud on it.

The cam sprocket has the same thread as the clutch nut, so the same 50 lb would not be silly. The oil pump worm is self-tightening under load, so I think 30 lb would be sufficient. You can't put a torque wrench on the gearbox lower stud, so 'tight' is the best anyone is going to do

Paul

Previously Phil Hannam wrote:

Check out the attachment. These are Commando settings but most can be applied to Dominator engines. Let me know if it does not open.

Thanks for the torque figures. I will go with 70 lb/ft on clutch, 50 lb//ft on cam and oil pump worm, 8 or 10 lb on oil pump studs and cam chain tensioner.

I have a Norbar SL2 which goes down to 5 lb/ft. It's of the micrometer type. Accurate, surely?

No advice on moving the pressure relief valve piston yet

Paul

Previously Phil Hannam wrote:

Pleased to hear that the attachment has opened and been of some use. A good starting point for most torque settings is the thread width. Eg 1/4" 12 - 15ftps.......5/16" 20ftps....3/8 30ftps etc. Taking into account the material used for the bolt/stud.

The camshaft nut is the same size and thread as the clutch mainshaft nut which does need at least 70ftps. However, I think that 50 would be quite sufficient for the camshaft. I agree that the oil worm is self-tightening but I always hit this with 50ftps. The lower gearbox stud gets both hands on a 12" long spanner and then a small thump with a hammer.

The nightmare nuts are the oil pump body and timing chain tensioner. These only take 12 to 15ftps before starting to pull the threads. I have never managed to find a torque wrench that actually measures 12ftps accurately.

So it sounds like the answer is to make a special tool so that you can mount the pressure relief valve housing in one end, and a small diameter drift the other. Hydraulic shock the relief piston out..... then wait for a stream of fellow restorers to request the use of your unique fix

Maybe a modified damaged timing cover, with extraneous drillings welded up? Eg the pump oil feed and crank seal housing, use the pressure gauge drilling beneath the relief valve for the drift.

Anyone donate a damaged timing cover for the cause?

Paul

Previously Phil Hannam wrote:

Somewhere in the archives of this Forum is a description from a chap who managed to hydraulically shift his very stuck relief piston. Obviously he had the means of constructing some plumbing that connected the likes of a lever pump to the valve body. I got my stuck piston out by de-soldering the filter gauze and then using lots of heat before bashing the the top with a brass rod.