So exactly how screwed am I?

I think I may have mentioned that I've inherited the bike and I'm finding out the hard way about the previous owner and his mechanical aptitude.

As I explore the head I seem to have the wrong type of rocker shafts as well as no heat insulating washers. Is this a major issue?

I've ordered some new pushrods, softer springs and some mushroom style tappet adjusters to see what I can do to sort this bit of the bike out.  

Oh yes. Also, having been told I would need a rocker spindle extractor I found the spindles came out with a single tap with a slide hammer. Not one gave any resistance.  I am assuming that I will need new spindles? Everyone else seems to have to fight them out. Either that or the head is fritzed as well? Ho Hum. 

Thanks. New spindles fitted and three of the four appear much tighter and much less likely to spin.  I've researched the RGM locator kit and may order a set for the loosest spindle. Head is now back on and valve clearance done. 

The oil pump is a three start version but all the seals need replacing and there was no gasket between the pump and the case. The gears seem to be working well so once the new seals are here we should be good to go. 

Onwards!

Well I had to remove the spindles to repair two of the tappet followers which were badly marked. Once the spindles were out I replaced the thackeray washers and thrust washer. I needed a shim on the r/h exhaust rocker but otherwise all good. This is a recommissioning process which is uncovering issues. If I started a new thread each time you would all be heartily sick of me before long. 

Edited to add that the damaged pushrods had deeply scored the ball ends of the tappets so needed replacement so it's all linked to my original post I guess! 

Ok. So the head has been sorted and all four valves open. The valves and springs are the shorter 650ss versions but seem fine. Push rods now engage and are correct for the 88/99 barrel I.e it won't take to fatter barrel shaped 650 versions. The valve timing is set as per the various manuals. Carb has been serviced and rebuilt - using a single monobloc 376 and a single manifold as a starting point. Air is being pulled into the carb on the induction strokes. Oil pump is in excellent condition and is returning oil to the tank and head. Timing chains are correctly spaced and run smoothly. The engine turns smooth and free on the crank and there is no interference at the rotor/stator.  I have healthy sparks on both spark plugs, correct gaps and Pazon ignition is set to 32 btdc. All good you might think.

But. It's still an absolute brute to kick over. Now I'm not exactly svelte and I'm having to give it my everything to get it to turn over. It can pretty much hold me standing on it. So difficult is the action that apart from a couple of backfires it's not fired up at all. It just doesn't feel right, especially as I can turn it on the crank without much effort. The kickstart also doesn't feel like it's engaged for all of the downward stroke and on occasions makes a knocking noise. 

Current feverish fault finding thought processes go as follows...

1.  Help!
2. Gearbox is somehow preventing a smooth and effective kickstart. I hate gearboxes. Hope it's not the gearbox…
3. Are the valves actually working in sequence? Is there a set order? How do I check?
4. Did the previous bodger fit the b****y camshaft backwards? Is this even possible?
5. Other unpublishable swearing and muttering.....
6. It's the gearbox isn't it. 

So - any bright ideas before I rip it all back to component parts?  Thanks in advance Edited to add that there is approximately 1/8 in free play on the kickstarter spline. Didn't seem significant before but maybe an issue?

Thanks gents. It's a cliche but without help and support from this forum I might just have given up!

 Everything points to the gearbox as being the issue as the engine turns over nicely (plugs in) when not trying to kick it over. I am suspicious of everything as I uncover bodge after bodge but this has to be the last remaining hurdle.

Now awaiting parts from Andover (lock ring removal tool)  so I can have a better look at the kickstart pawls and associated bushes. The gearbox itself moves nicely through the gears up and down the box so hopefully I won't need to remove the innards. 

I shall keep you updated   Cheers

Okidoki I've removed the kickstart mechanism and inner gearbox cover to look at the kickstart in more details. The layshaft 1st gear looks fine and the kickstart pawl like wise. 

What does feel wrong is the bush for the kickstart in the inner cover. The kickstart shaft is grinding on the inner cover and the bush seems to be below the rim of the housing. See pictures attached. I would be grateful for thoughts, observations and clues as to what to do next!

Cheers

Edited to say I think it's the wrong bush!