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Hydraulic Bench conumdren

Submitted by robert_tuck on Mon, 08/05/2023
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Heavy Twins

I have this machine mart full bench that is good for raising the bike to a comfy height, but useless for taking a wheel off. I has a removable panel for the rear wheel ,but these only come out  if the centerstand holds the wheel a couple of inches off the ground (which it wont) . I must be missing a trick somewhere. Tipping the bike over to wedge "2 lumps of timber under the stand is  very risky as the platform can tilt/distort.   Thinking of fitting a couple of hangers from the roof joists and just lowering the ramp to leave bike dangling !!. What do you do? 

Submitted by tony_wood on Mon, 08/05/2023

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I use one of those small motorbike  jacks that has a ‘table’ top with two movable cradles that can be slid along the table so that they line up under the two frame rails. (I’m sure there’s a proper name for this bit of kit but I don’t recall it). When the jack is raised, the cradles lift the rear end of the bike or the front end, as required. I then strap the bike firmly to the bike lift with ratchet straps either side. That makes it totally solid on the bike lift with the required wheel clear of the bench top.

Hope that helps

Regards

Tony

Submitted by mikael_ridderstad on Mon, 08/05/2023

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1. on my foot pedal hydraulic motorcycle lift (a Clarke CML3 lookalike) part of the table is removable giving room to remove rear wheel downwards. As Tony said a Clarke CML6 lookalike and straps both sides. Also works for front end.

2. Have a Clarke CML5 lookalike to use when the lift is occupied. Works well for both wheels.

3. Using a paddock stand. Though on a featherbed fits bobbins to rear shocks lower bolts and have made an extra high stand.

4. If everything is occupied have an engine crane.

5. The 16H and the Vincent easier as they have a rear stand. A necessity when roads was littered with horse shoe nails.

 

Submitted by robert_tuck on Tue, 09/05/2023

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I really like Geoffry's comment ! , it was my first thought, but of course very  complex to achieve.My bike has a full rear chaincase, bathtub and panniers  which obstructs the use of  paddock stands under the swinging arm. When I want to spin the rear wheel to clean rim,  oil the chain  check tension etc i use a small hydraulic jack under one axle nut . Not ideal. Getting the front high enough to pull out a fork leg is my current issue. Last time I backed the bike onto the table to use the pull out panel and was able to strap the Craven  rear carrier hard  down to the table , but backing bike  up  onto the table more than  a bit wobbly at my age and strength. I think another welding session for the centerstand and frame pads is looming.

Submitted by john_ward1 on Tue, 09/05/2023

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I have a Sealy workbench. That has a detachable ramp to allow the bike to be rolled onto the bench. That slides off sideways, making it easy to remove the rear wheel. If I want to work on the front wheel or forks, I simply roll the bike on backwards so the front is over the detachable ramp.

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Submitted by john_day on Tue, 09/05/2023

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let air out of front tyre, strap over headstock, tighten strap, this should raise back wheel enough to remove back wheel

Submitted by robert_tuck on Fri, 12/05/2023

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After some carefull measuring I realised i dont have to remove  either  wheel or even the valenced mudguard to remove a complete  fork leg , just pull out spindle unbolt guard stays one side  ,rotate slider and knock out the complete assembly . Simples !.

Submitted by steve_marshall1 on Mon, 22/05/2023

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Definitely go with the skyhook and a strap winch. So easy to be torquing up a swingarm spindle or something with enough force to roll the bike forward off the stand. Also it makes putting a bit of wood under the stand into a safe operation.

Submitted by david_cooper on Mon, 22/05/2023

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When on centre stand my Dommie front wheel is off the ground.  So I put a prop under the tip of the rear mudguard to lift the rear wheel instead. Take care of the paint...

 


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