Cutting out conundrum

which  in our world means electrical!!!  If it was  carb it would not be so closely linked, "cause and  effect" wise.  Do you have a kill switch on the bars? check for wiring issues related to bar  movement.   Have  you done a static  test by  moving  bars side to side with engine running?  or  try  leaning the bike over while running,  (two of you recommended).

Intersting.

J

The ignition wires go round the head stock. Try hot wiring the ignition see if this overcomes the issue. There is no handlebar kill switch as I assume we are talking coil ignition 18D2.

Thats an entertaining clown machine !!. Does the Pazon utilize the old distributor ? , Is there a lot of end float (axial clearance ) on the shaft?. What sort of ignition switch ?, Heavy bunch of keys flopping around?.  Knee down cornering  allowing heavy  WD dispatch riders coat tails to cover carb intake !!.

Sounds like the steering head area as suggested or nearby wiring while riding through right/ left corners but not apparent on a static test. Fuel starvation also possible but normally get some spluttering before dying.

On a different subject, is your Boyer coil the dual output PVL type for the Boyer Micro Power? A similar 0.6Ω unit is used with Pazons Smartfire and some modern Triumphs not the more common 3-5Ω twin output coils.

Pazon website is unclear on coil specs without trawling through loads of data but worth checking if your coil is compatible with Surefire unless it was recommended by Pazon. 

Everybody else has suggested an ignition problem. So it is likely a fuel problem. You said almost no throttle. The fast change of direction changed carb fuel level substantially. At small throttle opening, very little fuel is consumed so a change in fuel level will affect air/fuel mixture more. Possibly so rich or lean that engine stalls.

Edit: Could be dependant on your riding style. If you have more or less bike leaning angle than you have..

Still thinking on the electrical route although Mikael's points are valid also.  if is a "flip flop"  situation you may want to look at other parts of the loom that can move under inertia. 

Battery box, do you have an inline fuse holder that is floating in there,  conductors exiting the battery box grounding out on tinware either by insulation "nick" or bullet connector exposed at  a crucial position.

Wiring under tank is trapped, weight of fuel putting pressure on and breaking down the  insulation, are the coils spade connected or eyebolts, any movement anywhere? 

But as in my first post, when we all think its electrical,  and as Mr. A. O. has  guided us, ...  its probably Carb.

 Good  hunting

J

hello ,

are there any indicators fitted to the bike, drawing to much power. or creating a temporary short when turning

barry

... the power source to the indicators and go for a ride.  Probably just go for a ride and see if  you can repeat the error THEN disconnect the power source and re run the route...

J

Ask your self-was you using the indicators when the engine 'stop' happened? If it is a short then it will blow the fuse. There has not been any mention of such. So A O assumes there is no fuse. OR the engine 'stop' is not a short of the battery to earth, but more likely a broken feed. I did say 'hot wire' the ignition which could show/cover up the fault.

But of course this will turn out to be carburation!! But again as been said a carb fault should cough and sputter as it fails. An instant stop-no blown fuses or lights going out would 'say' an open circuit in the ignition?

hello

faulty brake light curcuit.  then again i suppose you could count that out if its fused also.

barry