I have just rebuilt a WD16H and I am having trouble starting it. The mag has been rebuilt and gives a very good spark, the timing has been set at 7/16ths BTDC fully advanced and rechecked so we know all is good in this department. As this engine does not have any timing marks on the cam wheels the valve timing was set as per the maual, although the manual discription is a not to clear, they were set using a dial indicater. Any advice on these settings would be appreciated. The carb has been stripped and cleaned new main jet and needle fitted. When I do get it started the engine fails to pick up. Any help in what to look for next or tips on sequence of starting would be much appreciated.
Hi, i run a big 4. I once…
- Log in to post comments
Hi John B, Though I dont h…
Hi John B,
Though I dont have a SV Norton I have something similar and the starting proceedure I use is as follows;
1) turn oil on
2) turn the engine over until the oil presure gauge starts to read (ignore if not fitted)
3) turn on fuel tap
4) tickle the carb until a wet finger is gained then wipe on shoe or someone standing within range (!)
5) set the advance/retard lever to the mid position
6) set the choke three quarters open (hot day) or full (cold day)
7) pull decompressor in and kick over a few times
8) hold decompressor lever to just off the stop (you may find that this loses all compression so a degree of experimentation may be called for)
9) engage kickstart ratchet and depress the kickstart smartly while holding the throttle just off the bottom stop
10) when engine starts move advance/retard lever to full advance
I normally get the desired result second or third kick. You will find it may not pick up when cold so use the choke to help it.
TIP: When pulling hard up a hill retard the ignition slightly, it does help.
Jim
- Log in to post comments
Previously wrote: Hi, i ru…
Previously wrote:
Hi, i run a big 4. I once had starting trouble and a bystander pointed out that petrol fumes were coming past the head gasket as I kicked it over. I think the copper/asbestos gasket had settled and the head needed re-tightening. I hate copper/asbestos gaskets and i now have a solid copper one. just a thought.
I once had trouble with the Big 4 only running on tickover. I had replaced the Cork seals in the taps and a piece of cork was jammed in the main jet.
It's difficult to tell inlet valves from Exhaust valves. I my Norton book they are the same part, which means they are bothexhaust quality. However the makers of pattern valves made differentinlet and exhaust. If an inlet is put in the exhaust it will expand and you will lose compression. Loosening the tappet will get you home but the valve will start to burn away. I think that exhaust vaves are non magnetic and inlet valves are magnetic.
I hope you get this problemsorted.
PS I'm after some WD pannier frames to fit to my 1948 big 4. If you know of any spare please contact me on jordanfamily@btinternet.com
Thanks John, I didn't know about the valves, must check them. The compression is ok and no leaking head gasket, if I hear of any pannier frames I will let you know. JB
- Log in to post comments
Previously wrote: Hi John…
Previously wrote:
Hi John B,
Though I dont have a SV Norton I have something similar and the starting proceedure I use is as follows;
1) turn oil on
2) turn the engine over until the oil presure gauge starts to read (ignore if not fitted)
3) turn on fuel tap
4) tickle the carb until a wet finger is gained then wipe on shoe or someone standing within range (!)
5) set the advance/retard lever to the mid position
6) set the choke three quarters open (hot day) or full (cold day)
7) pull decompressor in and kick over a few times
8) hold decompressor lever to just off the stop (you may find that this loses all compression so a degree of experimentation may be called for)
9) engage kickstart ratchet and depress the kickstart smartly while holding the throttle just off the bottom stop
10) when engine starts move advance/retard lever to full advance
I normally get the desired result second or third kick. You will find it may not pick up when cold so use the choke to help it.
TIP: When pulling hard up a hill retard the ignition slightly, it does help.
Jim
- Log in to post comments
Hi, i run a big 4. I once had starting trouble and a bystander pointed out that petrol fumes were coming past the head gasket as I kicked it over. I think the copper/asbestos gasket had settled and the head needed re-tightening. I hate copper/asbestos gaskets and i now have a solid copper one. just a thought.
I once had trouble with the Big 4 only running on tickover. I had replaced the Cork seals in the taps and a piece of cork was jammed in the main jet.
It's difficult to tell inlet valves from Exhaust valves. I my Norton book they are the same part, which means they are bothexhaust quality. However the makers of pattern valves made differentinlet and exhaust. If an inlet is put in the exhaust it will expand and you will lose compression. Loosening the tappet will get you home but the valve will start to burn away. I think that exhaust vaves are non magnetic and inlet valves are magnetic.
I hope you get this problemsorted.
PS I'm after some WD pannier frames to fit to my 1948 big 4. If you know of any spare please contact me on jordanfamily@btinternet.com