Dominator fork gap

Previously John Oldridge wrote:

HI Peter....Welcome

Doesn't seem quite right! How big is the gap? I'm a slim-line man myself but i'm sure others will be able to enlighten you better than me, If it has short roadholders, the chrome oil seal covers should be about 3", and the top covers fixed to the bottom yoke about 5 3/8,Hope this helps.I dont think the lack of oil at this stage would make any difference, but dont forget to put some in !

Regards John O

Thanks for that John, as Iv'e just come out of the shower, I will have to check those measurements tomorrow. I have the forks off the bike at the moment and stripped (the forks, not me) as I suspected problems before I bought it and sure enough the axle pinch bolt aluminium casting has split and the damper tube was not bolted at the bottom on the same side. Ho Hum!, well I did say it may be some time before it was completed.

Still Smiling

Regards Pete

Previously neil_wyatt wrote:

Hi Peter,

I have found that 200cc (Don't put any more in or you will blow the seals) of 20, 25 or 30 grade fork oil, depends how stiff you want it, works well.

This should improve things at the front.

Thanks for the info Neil but it may be some time before I am re-filling the forks

Previously Gordon Johnston wrote:

Had the same problemwhen my son bought his 88. Forks needed a rebuild (and as it turned out so did EVERY last bit of the bike - and guess who ended up doing it?) but the cuprit turned out to be mysteriously shortened fork shrouds. Best of luck with your sleuthing.

Thanks Gordon, I previously check the sizes that John Oldridge had given me and they were the same (It's still a Mystery)

Previously nick_coates wrote:

Dear Peter

You have long road holder forks with short road holder top covers / shrouds, you need to purchase long road holder covers/ shrouds.

The broken bottom pinch / clamp, you can have this welded by a good alloy welder.

It was caused by over tightening of the nut, when you want to re-assemble this is what you do......

Slide the wheel spindle (without wheel) through the holes, tighten the nut just to grip the wheel spindle, measure the gap in the clamp, make and shape a shim to fit the gap, plastic, alloy, stainless steel the choice is yours, remove the spindle and take out the stud, drill a hole in the shim, re- fit the stud passing through the shim so it will not fall out, re fit the spindle tighten the nut and check for grip on the spindle, the MAX torque is around 6-8 very light.

I always use lock tight on all nuts on my bikes as they vibrate so much.

nick

Thanks for the info Nick, seems like youv'e come up with the answer to my "Gap" problem. As we confer, my poorly pinch clamp is with a highly recomended aluminium welder. Now doe's anybody know the dimentions of the longer covers/shrouds and where they can be sorced.

Pete

Previously patrick_lindsay wrote:

Peter, the road going wideline and slimline frames had what is referred to as 'short roadholder' forks which means the stanchions are 21 3/4" to 21 7/8" long.(which you have confirmed).

In standard form they do not control the limit of the forks 'topping out' e.g. max extension when for instance on the centre stand. The top out (and indeed front ride height) is controlled by the damper tube length (combined with standard damper rods) and correct springs (18 3/4" to 18 7/8" long) so while the forks are down check your damper tubes are the correct dommie ones at 7 5/8 to 7 3/4"'" (Commando ones may have been fitted at 8 7/8" long).

(hope this post may help if the front ride height seems also high)

Patrick

(sizes must be approx as they are taken from various on-line catalogues)

Thanks for the info Patrick, I will check these parameters ASAP.