Hi,
I am looking for advice on some work I need done to my 1958 Dominator engine. The issue I have is vibration (not a little or even a lot but an unbearable vibration from the engine once I get up to abou 45Mph).
I recently purchased the bike so I can't tell you when it started but it's definitely not right. The compression is good and I'm pretty sure nothing is broken so I think the likely cause is going to be balance factor or crankshaft balance. It's definitely engine vibration, if I pull in the clutch and let the engine idle it all goes away.
What I am looking for is a recommendation for someone who could do the work preferably in the South somewhere as I live in Southampton. I was planning to speak to Mick Hemmings but I can't find a working phone number for him and I'm not sure if he is still in the business?
What I have in mind is I will get the engine out of the frame next month and strip it, check all the bearings etc and then send off the crank, rod and pistons to get them balanced. I've done plenty of work rebuilding engines in the past but I know my limits and I don't have the necessary equipment or knowledge to correct balance issues.
Any recommendations greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Will
Does Norman White tackle D…
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If it is "unbearable vibra…
If it is "unbearable vibration", I'd start by looking to see if the head steady bolts are tight. When mine came loose many years ago, my eyeballs wobbled so much I couldn't see where I was going...
I can't believe an engine could be put together that badly (unless crack shaft bolts are loose).
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Check the primary chain ha…
Check the primary chain has not pulled tight. The vibration could be engine mounting,gearbox, or head steady bolts loose. Is the front wheel balanced?. Is the petrol tank loose or touching the frame at the rear?, All things that have caused vibration for me. Is the ignition firing BOTH cylinders at the same position?.A few things to check before pulling it all appart.When you do pull it down look out for daft stuff like different size or ratio pistons etc!!. Some modern pistons are a lot heavier than the orriginals.
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I've seen an AMC off-road…
I've seen an AMC off-road single in Norman's workshop, so between that and Commandos, plus his restorations for the National Motorcycle Museum, I'm sure he'd be up for a Dominator. That and he's so near to you, relatively speaking!
It saves on Norman's charges when you do some of the work yourself, but you should know that he can organise all you propose, or better still tell you whether it needs doing or not.
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Head steady is the first t…
Head steady is the first thing to check. When I got my 99 (back in 1969) it was lacking a head steady and the vibration was dreadful. It vibrated the plates off a new battery. Check the cheap things first!
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If you are happy to do the…
If you are happy to do the strip and rebuild yourself, and just require the balancing to be out-sourced, then Basset Down are the ones to do it.... www.bassetdownbalancing.com
They are near Hungerford.
Ian
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Hello Will - I've had man…
Hello Will - I've had many alternator 99's and they seldom vibrated badly. One thing I would check urgently is that there is clearance of at least 8 thou between the alternator rotor and all of the stator coils. If that is ok check that all the nuts are tight on the studs through the engine castings and engine plates. Also that the engine plate to frame bolts are tight. When you check the rotor clearance you can put a large spanner on the crank nut and see if there is any up/down or left/right movement in the drive-side main bearing. You can also see that there is at least an inch of movement up and down in the primary chain and keep moving the engine through 360 deg to check the whole chain. They can go tight in one area when stood. Also check that with weight on the bike off the stand that the rear chain has at least 2 inches up and down free movement and then check the whole chain by rolling forward. Pete Lovell is a good bloke to rebuild an engine though I doubt that will be necessary. Good Luck, howard
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Previously robert_tuck wro…
Previously robert_tuck wrote:
Check the primary chain has not pulled tight. The vibration could be engine mounting,gearbox, or head steady bolts loose. Is the front wheel balanced?. Is the petrol tank loose or touching the frame at the rear?, All things that have caused vibration for me. Is the ignition firing BOTH cylinders at the same position?.A few things to check before pulling it all appart.When you do pull it down look out for daft stuff like different size or ratio pistons etc!!. Some modern pistons are a lot heavier than the orriginals.
Hi Robert,
Thanks for your suggestions. I have checked the primary chain, wheel balance and ignition timing on both cylinders. I'm pretty sure the fuel tank is not loose but I will certainly check it to make sure.
I had read about replacement pistons being different weights so I will certainly check this - does anyone know what the weight of original pistons is? I figure as well as them both being the same weight they should also have the correct weight when compared to the crankshaft to give the correct balance factor.
Will
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Previously howard_robinson…
Previously howard_robinson wrote:
Hello Will - I've had many alternator 99's and they seldom vibrated badly. One thing I would check urgently is that there is clearance of at least 8 thou between the alternator rotor and all of the stator coils. If that is ok check that all the nuts are tight on the studs through the engine castings and engine plates. Also that the engine plate to frame bolts are tight. When you check the rotor clearance you can put a large spanner on the crank nut and see if there is any up/down or left/right movement in the drive-side main bearing. You can also see that there is at least an inch of movement up and down in the primary chain and keep moving the engine through 360 deg to check the whole chain. They can go tight in one area when stood. Also check that with weight on the bike off the stand that the rear chain has at least 2 inches up and down free movement and then check the whole chain by rolling forward. Pete Lovell is a good bloke to rebuild an engine though I doubt that will be necessary. Good Luck, howard
Thanks Howard,
I have checked some but by no means all of these points. I have combined these with Robert's suggestions and will check all points before I start pulling the engine out.
Will
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Previously Gordon Johnston…
Previously Gordon Johnston wrote:
Head steady is the first thing to check. When I got my 99 (back in 1969) it was lacking a head steady and the vibration was dreadful. It vibrated the plates off a new battery. Check the cheap things first!
Thanks Gordon,
I'm getting a list together of everyone's suggestions and will work through it. Also some more description of the vibration, my eyeballs are OK but when I get up to around 55 MPH it feels like someone is attacking my bum with a tattoo gun (i've never had a tattoo on my rear but I imagine the sensation is similar)! It's a pretty painful feeling so I think it's a high frequency vibration. I'm pretty sure if I kept it up for long enough I would end up with some sort of industrial nerve damage....
Will
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Previously will_woodman wr…
Previously will_woodman wrote:
Hi,
I am looking for advice on some work I need done to my 1958 Dominator engine. The issue I have is vibration (not a little or even a lot but an unbearable vibration from the engine once I get up to abou 45Mph).
I recently purchased the bike so I can't tell you when it started but it's definitely not right. The compression is good and I'm pretty sure nothing is broken so I think the likely cause is going to be balance factor or crankshaft balance. It's definitely engine vibration, if I pull in the clutch and let the engine idle it all goes away.
What I am looking for is a recommendation for someone who could do the work preferably in the South somewhere as I live in Southampton. I was planning to speak to Mick Hemmings but I can't find a working phone number for him and I'm not sure if he is still in the business?
What I have in mind is I will get the engine out of the frame next month and strip it, check all the bearings etc and then send off the crank, rod and pistons to get them balanced. I've done plenty of work rebuilding engines in the past but I know my limits and I don't have the necessary equipment or knowledge to correct balance issues.
Any recommendations greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Will
Hello the thing to do is to get stuck in your self mate, and learn step by step Nortons are easy engines to strip and rebuild, there are many DVDs on Norton twins rebuild and strip downs the thing is when stipping down have a camera at the ready so you then can go back and see what you have done and have good parts bins and clean everything, well and get a good vernier calliper digital like a Mitutoyo so you can take measurement and write it all down in a writing book this will then tell what is worn and what's ok to reuse, try to find a Bruce Mainsmith maintenancemanual and I think I have a copy of John Hudson engine strip and rebuild, On VHS, there the best John Hudson knew Norton twins inside out, just like me, thought the lightof experience, your Anna J
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Hi Will, Why not come alon…
Hi Will,
Why not come along to the Solent branch club night as there are a number of knowledgeable Dommie owners there. The next meeting is this Thursday (1st Nov) at the Chairmakers, World's End, nr. Hambledon / Wickham.
I am a Dommie owner based in Chandlers Ford but, although willing, am not the most technically able to help (but can give moral support).
Cheers
Graham
P.S.
Recently used Norman White to work on my Commando and can highly recommend.
To do non-Norton jobs / machining etc can recommend Ted's Shed in West End, Saunders Engineering, Netley Marsh or Owlesbury Engineering, Winnall
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Previously graham_reeves w…
Previously graham_reeves wrote:
Hi Will,
Why not come along to the Solent branch club night as there are a number of knowledgeable Dommie owners there. The next meeting is this Thursday (1st Nov) at the Chairmakers, World's End, nr. Hambledon / Wickham.
I am a Dommie owner based in Chandlers Ford but, although willing, am not the most technically able to help (but can give moral support).
Cheers
Graham
P.S.
Recently used Norman White to work on my Commando and can highly recommend.
To do non-Norton jobs / machining etc can recommend Ted's Shed in West End, Saunders Engineering, Netley Marsh or Owlesbury Engineering, Winnall
Hi Graham,
Thanks for the advice, I read it too late to come along to the meeting and I am now half way through stripping the engine. Will definitely look up the companies you mention once I have identified exactly what needs to be done.
Will
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Does Norman White tackle Domis? He certainly knows his stuff when it comes to Commandos and he's in your neck of the woods.
The answer appears to be yes according to his website: http://www.normanwhite.co.uk/services.htm