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Anyone who followed my iron head rigid Inter on the NOC National Rally run this last weekend will have seen the smoke screen on pulling away from a standstill.  Any ideas why, or similar experiences would be very welcome.

There is no rocker box around the valves to cause oil to flood down the guides, so they are lubricated by oil running down from the cam box through copper pipes into the valve guides.  My theory is the stem clearance might be too wide, and oil gets in too easily - but is that a known issue or am I looking in the wrong direction?  This is the only Inter I have any experience of.

And I know the guides are yellow metal - but not what type of bronze.  But if cast iron is good enough for Lamborghini (and indeed most Commandos), isn't it good enough for an Inter?  And would it last a lot longer?

I apologise if this is as contentious as an oil thread...

 

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My '36 Inter engine is the same as yours and I have never noticed a smoke screen on pulling away. I have not heard of it being a known issue. I have not had a smoke problem even when my valve guides have worn. Bear in mind that the valve to guide clearances on the inter are greater as standard than most bikes.

Perhaps you have the oil feed to the back of the barrel set to high. The instruction book does say "cylinder feed adjuster is 1/2 to 3/4 turn from the fully home position or unit a faint haze is visible from the exhaust pipe when the engine is accelerated."

I have no experience of using cast iron guides in my Inter only phosphor bronze.

Regards, Nick

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Thanks Nick.  That the kind of reply I was slightly dreading! I hoped I'd be able to put a finger straight on the issue.  It goes well, but I fear the Police might take an interest one day.

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Does your smoke screen appear because you have had a reasonable overrun of the motor to come to a standstill or are you using the piston to accelerate up to traffic speed after stopping?    

Overrun most likely as stopping these machines is a long thought out process, taking as much advantage of the compression on a shut throttle as possible. During this process the engine cannot breath through the carb so it sucks at any and every passage of air it can, in particular inlet valve guide.

Conversely, if all was fine at point of rest ( gently open throttle and look for the blue haze) but  you smoke on acceleration, it is more likely to be piston ring bypass as you pressure the piston crown to accelerate smartly up to modern traffic speed.

For modern road use, guide material is irrelevant; correct clearance is the issue. Do you have the Carroll motor with the oiling bolt for the rear of the piston skirt. Is that set ok?

 As a test, pop the oil feeds off the guides, a cocktail stick will seal them.  Take it for a gentle run to see if you create the same situation; if not, you know where it’s coming from.  Cheers

 

Jon  

 

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Thanks for the ideas Jon. I've just been inspecting.  The rear oil feed has been opened and closed and doesn't seem to be the issue.  But the quill tip is worn back.  It's feed hole is about right..that is until  I turned the tip off! A new one is on order.

I took out the exhaust hairpins.  There's not enough play to be felt, so it's probably not exhaust valve. Didn't remove inlet springs (because the oil feed has to come off...).

I'll have to wait for the quill to arrive unless I make one...then see how it behaves. Then remove the pipes as you suggest.  If the engine is already hot, that should show up if they are to blame.

Then replace rings I suppose.

 

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Is that your centre feed oil quill? Looks like a crank one…   Is this on the 34 inter?  Could this be. Your over oiling issue you mentioned in previous posts?

Be interested in some more pictures of the top end if possible. Must be one of the first inters?

cheers

Jon

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It has a 1932 engine. But lots of later mods. Hairpins, magnesium cambox  centre feed.  The quill in the picture is the same as Paul Norman sells.. or it should be!  Early features are the horizontal exit for the drive side crankcase breather. That was redirected upwards very soon, otherwise it exits into the later oil bath chaincase.  

The carb is an early TT version, which has a wider splayed inlet to suit a shorter, wider inlet trumpet.  Previous owner fitted a much longer one.

And yes..they are all a bit incontinent, but it's a bit more than usually so.  I just replaced the cambox seals, but with little improvement.

Using Morris C40 (castor based). Could or maybe should use 50?  I'll carry on using it because I don't want to take the engine apart to clean it all out to use a modern super synthetic oil.

 

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Hi David/all,

   The general rule of thumb for compatibility is cast iron guides in cast iron heads, bronze in aluminium. Although many models use cast iron in aluminium, probably due to cost, this is a problem with the guides becoming loose in the head due to the different expansion rates. Bronze in cast iron can be the opposite problem with the guide distorting in the slower expanding iron. Also, bronze requires constant lubrication, whereas cast iron is able to work with miminal lubrication.

   I would agree to check the cylinder feed adjustment first, I have only half a turn on mine. You should also check cambox feed adjustment and re-seat the ball bearing seating. What is possibly the cause, if the bike has been laid up for some time, is the castor oil gumming up the piston rings so they are not doing their job. 

   

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Thanks Richard.

The original guides for the Inter and those commercially available now are all some kind of bronze.  The exhaust one is all in one with the lower valve spring retainer, but that can be replaced to match the inlet if necessary.

They do of course have oiling tubes.  Changing them will be a last resort.   First I'll see how it behaves with a new oil quill, and then perhaps re-check OHC oil pressure feed.  But that varies with engine revs, temperature etc.  I wonder if perhaps that is a sign of a pressure relief spring not working properly?  I don't yet know exactly what's inside the adjuster...

Rear barrel feed has been closed and opened half a turn or so with no obvious effect.  Perhaps the oil control piston ring might be worth changing, but rings are free to move.

The main thing is that it goes well.

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An update.  Fitted new camshaft oil feed quill.  No difference whatsoever.  It's fine until the engine is properly warmed up, but smokes when pulling away from traffic lights.  Sadly, there are lots of these where I live.  Cocktail sticks in the valve guide oil feeds are the next step.

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Update...smoke free at last!  The problem was (is?) excess oil draining down through the valve guide lubricator feed pipes. I added miniature valves to allow me to switch off the oiling at the roadside.  Close the valve (slot in screw across the pipe line) and the smoke vanishes.

Now of course I have to decide how much oil it needs. I can re-drill the screw with smaller hole.  It's not easy to simply turn it half off...because I can't see inside it.

 

Of course...for a race bike, this was irrelevant.  It's only a problem because the flow is constant, regardless of speed, so it becomes important only on tickover

 

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David, that’s a rather neat idea. I can’t help thinking that you have a particularly healthy oil supply to the top end.  The picture shows a motor that has seen a lot of oil seepage. Do you know what your pressure is at the head?

Cheers

Jon

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I put a gauge on it and it varied from about 7 to 12psi.  I have had leaks and recently changed the seals. It's a lot better now.. but castor based oil leaves an almost permanent mess...

I've now been told that the inlet guide feed should be more constricted than the exhaust one. The tubes and gland nuts look very similar.  Next I'll have a good look at the adaptors into the cambox.  The inlet feed might have been wrong for years.

I think I might replace my valve screw with one with a much smaller hole.  That can be done by the roadside.

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The 7- 12psi sounds right.  As I remember the pipes are nominally 1/8” bore with the valve guide end swaged to fit,  that reduce the diameter to more like a 1/16”.  It may be that pipes have been replaced by PO and drilled the casting to take them parallel sided? Didn’t know they were different although the  exhaust is prone to clogging due to the extra heat baking the oil and forming deposits.

 

Cheers

Jon

 

 

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Thanks Jonathan. The brass adapters in the cambox look OK. Inlet is smaller  as it should be.  My guess is inlet guide might be worn. In a perfect world it would spend less time waiting at traffic lights!

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…a short journey with the pipes removed and blanked. Being exposed valve gear there is little chance of drawing oil down the guide. If it cleans up the burn then you must be on the right track.  That they are worn to this degree begs the question; do you run without them until you are ready to change the guides.  In practice they were often blocked as the carbon from burnt oil built up especially on the exhaust valve guide.

Winter is here; nice job to take your time over and run clean(er) in the spring.

best regards

jon

 

 

 

 


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