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slimline center stand spring attachment


How much do folks like doing this chore? I have tried the stacking washers and was not getting anywhere. I may have had a break thru procedure. I need to try it again to see if I was successful. What is your procedure?



I use a hose clamp to stretch the spring far enough to put the clip on.


Mine’s a wideline but sure my method would work for you, no effort and safe: i used a piece of angle iron to span the top frame tubes, hole drilled in middle, piece of all thread studding with a hook at bottom end bent up from some 1/8 steel strip and secured with a nut. Nut on top end, place hook on spring loop and wind top nut down to stretch spring until you can slip it on the anchor boss on engine plate, works a treat.

I understand clearly your stated method. Certainly will hold as a excellent back up to my proposed method that I will describe after a few more attempts at spring installation.  I have 4 slimline, but only 2 more centerstand hardware to try out. My first try was with no magneto and it worked slick as can be, but the procedure to be fully desirable must work with the mag installed.  That will be my next attempt.


Don  a little vague?

Do you attach the top spring loop on the top hanger  post....clamp the bottom to a crossbar?   Stretch the spring t down?   Slip the hook through the bottom spring loop and catch the center stand, then release  the hose clamp?



If you could imagine if the spring was very weak you would just pull it down and clip it on with your fingers.

So I unwind the hose clamp and thread it over the centre stand cross piece.

Connect it up and through the spring.

Wind the hose clamp in until the spring is nearly touching the crossover and then hook the clip on.

Then remove the hose clamp.


OK Don thanks,  I follow that now and it seems clear enough. I envision the bottom spring loop being rotated 90 degrees from what I expected would be it's normal orientation.

I first tried the old wives tale.of stacking coins/washers between the coils and was getting no where fast LOL.  The method I devised took only seconds to perform.. If I repeat successfully I'll post some pix of the setup.



I have never had any problem doing this, tank and seat off, carb too, probably, bike on centre-stand, I attach the spring to the stand either by the hook, or the clip then put a loop of signal rope/ sash cord or similar through the top end of the spring and wrap it two or three times around a podger bar or 3/4"" steam pipe about 2 foot long, then simply pull the spring up and hook it on to the lug, if the rope gets caught just cut it.


I have generally removed the tank and then pulled the spring upwards. I loop a strong length of string (twine) through the top of the spring and insert a wooden rod through this loop to provide some leverage. Another piece of wood across the top frame rails acts as the fulcrum and protects the paint but is not always needed.


I too use the method described above by Niall and Phil except I used a length of wire and a cut down broom handle, very easy to do and also very safe.


Thanks for the added methods. Currently the bike is on a lift table and would be tough for me to climb up there and do serious manuvers.and end up face planted on the ground LOL..  But these procedures  certainly have promise too. And I'll try them all on the last bike which is not going to be used soon.


Hi David

I've used the following method several times;

Put bike on alternative [eg side or paddock] stand

Unbolt centre stand

Fit new spring and use centre stand itself to lever into position.

Hope this helps.

The following may be of interest as I don't care for the top fixing and 

spring catching on gearbox casing:

Remove existing top fixing and drill hole same size, same place in opposite

[right] engine plate.

Using a long bolt, washers, nut and by making your own spacers you can move the spring

away from the gearbox casing. Hang the spring from the bolt.


I have notice the spring vibration marking on some featherbed GB cases. It does make me wonder about the reason  for touching the case. With the previous fairly good condition and some new centerstand bushing parts, I can easily see that this Manxman spring had not marked and does not touch the GB.  On these engine plates they appear to both be with identical bolt holes except for the additional adjuster mount on the RH side.  There may however, be interferance from a shorter primary chain.or engine sprocket selection.  Once assembled and running again the bike will be sold by the owner (not me).


I don't think that you can unbolt the left side of the stand without first removing all of the Primary side tinware and associated chunks on a standard Dommie.


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