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Norton Dominator 88 1960

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Hello to all, hope you are well, I have, as title says a Norton Dom 88 1960 slimline and I also have a Norton Dom 99 1959 wideline and while my 99 runs perfectly well the 88 does not have the pulling power it should have.

There is a hill near me and the 99 flies up there in top and I have to shut off at the top to take the bend, the 88 is struggling in third at around 30 and it's embarrassing to say the least. The 88 starts, runs and idles fine, I just have to avoid hills and that's hard to do in Wales, I have checked the sprockets and all are correct. On the flat it goes through the gears very well up to 70 no issues at all, in fact it accelerates better than the 99.

The carb is set up as per book, it's running a tad rich, double checked the timing, Have used B6 ES and B7 ES plugs no difference made.

Something is not right and I can't find the problem, hence the cry for help.

Kind regards Colin

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Hi Colin, Is it misfiring? Does it fluff under load? If the ignition circuit is fine then everything points otherwise to fuel delivery and carburation, are there tank problems, fuel taps? But from your description it does sound like a carburation problem,  what are the settings you have used? Is the bike twin carb's?

See settings table, posted up previously, by Phil Hannam.

 

John

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With my 1954 88 Colin. It started, ran smoothly and attained good speed, but was always looking for a shorter gear when presented with a hill.  Usual checks on compression, carburation, timing did nothing to improve it.  It was only when a Vincent Comet steamed past with a full size rider on board that I was convinced it was not right.    

My missing link was MAGNETO.  There were no obvious symptoms or adverse reactions to tests but rebuilt and refitted it transformed the power output of the machine and was one of my favourite rides.

Hi John, thanks for the reply.

Doesn't misfire at all just struggles and revs die but keeps going and once it's over the hill it's away again, tank and taps okay, good flow and carb settings (single carb monobloc) are as per Phil Hannam table for an 88, the bike is to nice to be left in this condition.

Kind regards Colin

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Thanks for the comments Jonathan,

The mag was rebuilt (not by me but by a reputable company I have used many times) in January last year when I rebuilt the bike and the problem has been there since the rebuild, the bike wasn't running when I bought it, I do have a newly reconditioned mag on the shelf which I could try just to rule it out.

Kind regards Colin

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I have seen this serious lack of 'grunt' power before and it was due to compression and worn bores/rings. So a real pain to strip and put right. You say you bought the bike as a non runner, so I wonder if the pistons/bores are an unknown issue?

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That does look eceptional, As Al says something not quite right. I had one in the same trim, not as beefy as a 99 but actually faster with usable revs to 7000 and would do an indicated 90 in third.A compression test would be a good start.

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A lovely looking machine Colin, almost a pity to tear it apart!

Robert and Alan have a good point.

A test Norton 88 at the official  place in the Midlands near Leicester, MIRA, was recorded as pulling 111 mph probably an alloy head, twin carb SS model, but pretty good figures and a good 88  should reach the 7,000 rpm mark, for your sake I hope it isn't poor compression, but if it is once stripped the problem can be sorted.

 

Ref, 111 mph, Mick Walkers book "Dominator" , but I can't find the page this morning, duh! I bought the book, as new on from Ebay for £12 and was surprised when I opened it it was signed by the author. Plenty information and a good read! Even though he includes different models!

 

 

John

 

 

 

 

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We had two 88's   mine was a flier ,my brothers was a dog  with poor power and a very bent frame. My brother still outran the local police with their Triumphs and said it was the best bike he ever had!.  

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If it is hill climbing, that's probably the only time you ever use full throttle in this dystopian world of speed cameras. Which suggests a partly blocked main jet, or even a main jet that has come unscrew. Unless slide does not open fully.

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My experience of something very similar was with my T120R Bonnie. Tried everything but on hills was a nightmare and had to change down but on the flat or downhill no problem. New carbs as they were getting on valves and tappets adjusted etc. Eventually changed the electronic ignition from Boyer which was 15 years old by then and just fitted to bike when I bought it in 2004 although no obvious signs as it started and ran OK as described on flat.. Anyway now new system last year and no issues. Starts first time while used to struggle a bit with the old Boyer to start although here was intermittent. Anyway not sure if helps but as I say very similar issue. Hugh

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Thanks for the kind and encouraging comments, I did a total strip of the engine when I rebuilt the bike beginning of last year, it had 75k miles on the speedo and to be honest I have no reason to doubt that reading except for it being a lot of miles, the bike had been not very well stored for many years.

I replaced the standard big end shells as the journals looked and measured fine and replaced main bearings The pistons were on +.020"  and the bores were quite good, I honed the cylinders and fitted new rings, the ring gaps were acceptable although I can't remember exactly the gap. New guides fitted and re-cut seats. Just done a comp test on a cold engine and both cylinders are 100psi, the 99 for comparison was 105psi, I am not sure what reading I should have though, maybe 120 is good.

Engine doesn't burn or leak much oil and breathes okay, we will get to the bottom of this problem because the bike is worth the effort and any expense involved.

Kind regards Colin

 

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I fitted new STD shells to a well worn crank and found the crank stiff to turn. The rods had gone a bit oval! . A friend rebuilt his Triumph 500GP  with exactly the same result ,He could not even kick the bike over, I managed to stop him trying to tow start it with a car. Learnt a lot in those early years ,I was only 14 when he trusted me to re-build the Triumph. Up to then I had only worked on cars. I'm still learning 60 years on .

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As almost everything else have been suggested, have you checked that valves opens and closes when they should? Could be worth checking. The only other thing I can think of is too restrictive silencers. Back then I found a big improvement fitting straight pipes on my 99. When chased twice a day by police, replaced with Dunstall silencers which gave only a neglectable loss of power.

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hello  well this model 88 has fitted a magneto when it should have coil ignition  as it does have the PRS8 lighting and ignition switch Witch, therefore, should have a distributor, Not a Magneto,   and have you tried Champion N9BYC These Have the Same Heat rate As N5 But These Are For Ehernol fuel  And are Self-shielding Plugs  and Have you PLug caps with resistors in them As Magnetos Do not like Resistors in line  and I think your compression is blowing out the Spark and your magneto may be having a hard time keeping a good spark at speed  So then something to investigate  and Most of the Model 88s in 1960 came out In two-tone colour of Dove Grey And Red And the 88SS was in Dove grey and Green  but this model 88 looks as it's ended up model 50 single cylinder colours of dove grey and black   And Black is not the easy colour to look after As most think it is  My 1954  model 88 wideline,  runs a pulls like a train  and She dose  have the International Gearbox cluster fitted semi-close ratio and is on the high side in the gearbox  but the Semi-tuned Engine makes up for this This bike is as fast as my 650 The Engine was rebuilt buy me some time ago with many go faster bits like a Daytona Cam and Flat Followers the Pistons are 8.9.1 Compession ratio  BHB  the Valves are racing specifiaction  along with high rate valve springs and Stainless steel pushrods  and Superblend main bearings  She has stronger rods fitted too  And the Magneto was Carefully rebuilt by me and remagantized  buy Dunns magnetos  So she run like a Manx  engine with a echo  she also has twin amal 276 pre mono block carbs fitted but she all in standard trim  ,Yours  Anna J

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 I checked the points they were a tight .012" so I eased them to a slack .012", I then re-timed the ignition, I normally use a spoke with marks on but this time I used a DTI and I also used a timing disc to be double sure but still using a fag paper to gauge when points open.

The timing was a shade out at around .210" 26 degrees and when reset was .250" and 29 degrees, the valve timing was as it should be, six links tween the dot marks. I did notice the mag chain was quite loose with my cut out timing case fitted, I slackened the top two mag bolts and gave a "gentle" tap and this put a little more tension on the chain.

Nothing else was done, the carb had been cleaned few days before and was as per book, I then started the bike, first kick as usual and put my gear on and headed for the hills. 40 mph in top and I have to admit it was running smoother and throttle was just about open and it was doing 50 at quarter throttle not missing a beat.

I approached the long hill and gave it half throttle and bike was doing about 60 and it went up the hill nicely in top and I had to shut off to go around the bend so okay my thoughts are the timing was out a shade but I think it was riding style left a lot to be desired.

It reminds me of the Triumph T100ss stashed away in the corner of a shed of mine, why is it there because it's a bloody awful ride as far as I am concerned, it goes like stink but for tootling around B roads it's hopeless, up and down the box, not for me.

Finally thanks to all for the advice and encouragement, I have just read on the Welsh news that we in Wales will be allowed to travel further than 5 mile limit next Monday so weather permitting I shall put a few miles on it and sees how it performs.

Take care all and ride safe.

Colin

 

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Was driven mad by a friend's AJS with similar symptoms. It turned out to be the throttle cable. The throttle wouldn't open beyond half. A new cable meant performance restored - it would climb hills two up that previously had it struggling with solo.

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Hi Gordon,

I did mark the twist grip 1/4, 1/2 etc etc and checked the slide was moving nicely and was happy with it.

Anna

The colour options for 1960 for 88 and 99 models were Red and Dove Grey, Black and Dove Grey or Two Tone Grey

Kind regards Colin

 

Anna, Y'know my views on colour and modifications, many motorcyclists wanted their bike s to be personal to them, not everybody wants factory replica clones, there are enough Factory replicas out there not to warrant any more museum pieces! If all the 88's in a year were blue, then Mine would be in red!

And if anyone spotted this and criticised it, I would ask, is it your bike, and when the answer came NO! Depending on their manner I would say, then you have your answer! Or if the were the clever smarmy type I would said "sod off then"! Or if they were genuinely curious, I would tell them what details had changed and why I had done so!

I hate black frames...but that is another story!

 

 

 

John

In reply to by mikael_ridderstad

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Back when I first worked on my 1959 '99' (In 1965!) I corresponded with the factory (John Hudson I think) and he reckoned that it performed better with twin carbs, Siamese pipes and an "SS Silencer".  I don't know what t he difference in the silencers was.  Never found one and couldn't afford it anyway!  He reckoned the "QR" Daytona camshaft (standard on my bike) was fine but you could get a slightly better performance with an SS cam and flat-based followers.

My Brother had the same year and model, but Cafe-Racer" style with alloy guards and twin carbs.  Flat down on the tank on a level dual-carriageway (no motorways near us in Hampshire!) we got the dials round the clock with an indicated 120mph, but his had the edge on mine!  No "National" speed limits then.

 


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