I have an oil leak from points cover so assuming the seal behind here is shot.
i have an unknown make electronic ignition fitted. How do i remove the pick up? do i need a puller of some type and where would i get it? could be a problem not knowing make of unit or the thread on it ,does anyone recognise. (if photos work?)
I haven't really tried to get it off yet and dont want to break anything trying! So any help and advise greatfully recieved
That looks like a Boyer unit, you should be able to just remove the centre bolt and then the inside will be threaded.
As per the standard commando manual to remove the contact breaker cam:-
Using service tool 060934 as shown in Fig C20, screw the tool home through the contact breaker cam until the cam is lifted off the camshaft taper.
If you don't have one then the rotor bore is threaded internally to accept a 5/16" UNF bolt, that should be screwed into the rotor a few turns then tap the bolt head up-down-left-right a few times and the rotor will drop off its taper.
I did wonder if was a Boyer(the black box is stuck down to rear mudguard so no writing visable to identify)
Thats good to know that thread is likely the same as standard,looks like Andover Norton sell a slide hammer for this so think i will get that.
Also AN supply a guide tool for the camshaft oil seal - part no. 06.1359 for £5.75 which assists fitting the timing cover and damaging your new seal. Alternatively a twist of tape or kitchen foil on the end of the shaft helps the cover on without damaging the lip of the oil seal.
Tony Ripley’s method of using /tapping a 5/16” bolt works well and you may not need a slide hammer.
Good luck with it!
Thanks.It looks relatively straight forward,hopefully i am right!
Yes i already have the guide tool as i bought the Tool roll which included it from AN as i didn't have any spanners for these old things when i bought her in september!
I have now ordered everything i need including slide hammer,and oil seal driver from Andover,Hopefully i will be keeping this bike till i am too old to ride (which is hopefully a long, long time) so don't mind shelling out on special tools to make it easier,as they will certainly be used again.
Speaking of AN they really are awesome as a company and individually and always impress me.Last night(sunday)i sent an email at about 10pm to check a few things before placing my order,expecting it to be answered some point today,only to find first thing this morning that it was answered in full within a few minutes of me sending! Way above and beyond reasonable expectation!
All done though not test ridden due to lockdown but assumed good( i bought 2 of everything for spares stock anyway so can try again if not!)
Once it was removed and in decent light i could confirm it was definately a boyer unit.i didn't rush to do it due to covid19 restrictions on going out but it was all pretty easy with the right tools thanks to Andover Norton.
My intention with the timing was just to put it back as i found it but had accidently knocked it into gear and moved it abit when i went to roll bike away! So finding boyer instructions i tried to follow them using timing mark(knew i hadn't moved it much so should have just gone back a touch to find mark) but managed to use the wrong one and after 5 or 6 kicks i realised it was wrong.Popped rotor off and refitted atcorrect position and fired 1st kick!
All good,getting to know bike more and more.
Thanks to all contributors.
… is a big saving over buying the individual items separately, and as you will have found includes very, very nice spanners, etc.
Eventually you will need more than the Whitworth/BS and AF items in the toolkit; the Club shop sells decent open-end and combination spanners, and sockets, at favourable prices. One can never have too many tools, and when you come to remove/replace the head and cylinder block you may well want to have some spares to grind down to access the very limited space available.
On special tools, it will with luck be a while before you need to delve deeper into your bike, but do study the list of special tools in the workshop manual (page 6, I think)
Some of these can be worked round if not present and the job is urgent (pullers, transmission locking — a stout rag jammed between sprocket and chain will do), while others are indispensable (e.g. for compressing the clutch spring).
The only one of these that (imho) you can definitely do without is the 061229 Exhaust Pipe Ring Spanner — provided that the finish on the finned nuts is not important to you, a large Stillson is much more effective.