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Valve Oil Supply

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I've replaced the valve guides, valves and springs on my 1936 Model 18 due to a blockage in the small bore copper pipe running from the pushrod cover to the valve guides. (Photos attached) The blockage caused the exhaust valve to seize and, on dismantling it, I found all the valve gear in a real mess. The valve springs and rockers are exposed and it's a mystery to me how sufficient oil is supplied to the guides. The valve guides seem to be gravity fed from the rocker assembly but the only oil in there must be oil mist coming up the pushrod tubes? Having replaced all the valve gear and cleared out the blockage, I'm wondering, is valve oiling a recognised issue with OHV models in 1936 as the whole valve redesign was done in 38? 

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The undated (but I beleive 1937) Instruction Manual that I have states "These rocker bearings are lubricated by oil mist from the crankcase but this should be supplemented by grease every 1000 miles. It will be noticed that two grease gun nipples are provided on the side of each rocker bearing boss on the rocker box fixed immediately above the cylinder head"

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Thanks for the response Richard.. my question was more on the lubrication of the valve guides, the only source of oil being the small bore copper tubing from the rocker box. I grease the rockers periodically and when I dismantled it all they appeared to be well lubricated. I suppose the question is a little academic as even if it is a known weakness I'm not sure what could be done about it. I'll just ride it (if it ever stops raining) and see if the problem re-occurs.

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A friend is rebuilding a similar age Model 19 engine and we have also discussed rocker box oiling. One idea we came up with is to add a breather to the rocker box, maybe in the tappet access cover like the Kingpin breather for the later engines. If linked to a fuel line non-return valve (so that it breathes out but not in) that might encourage a flow of oil mist to the rocker box. Just a thought at this stage but not difficult to implement. On the OHC singles, which also have those small bore feed tubes to the guides, it is necessary to check the pipes periodically for blockages. Especially on the exhaust side where the heat causes the oil to carbonise in the tube.

Ian McD

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The OHC singles of course have oil positively fed to the top end.  I don't know if there is a pressure feed to the tubes,  but I think it just runs out there by overflowing from the bevel box. (maybe?).

Other Norton engines of the period have drain tubes a bit like that in other places.  e.g. to the cavity around the tops of the valve guides under the tappets on the prewar 16H, where drain pipes descend to the ground, and to the mag drive (I think), so probably that's what they hoped for in the Model 18.  But if the rockers are occasionally greased, the excess grease is bound to block drain tubes.  Wasn't the issue recognised and rectified after the War?  The prewar (and WD) 16H makes do with grease nipples on the sides of the valve guides.

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I did wonder John, but you referred to "valve gear in a real mess" and I took that to mean rockers as well...I've had serious problems with '36 pattern 16H valve guide wear...caused I think by fretting on the valve stems.

Modern plasma-coated valves from G&S seem to have helped but I'm suspicious of the solvents in modern fuels and their effect on borderline lubrication.

I'm also not sure about types of grease used in the 1930s...There were references in the manual to 'light grease' but the War Department listed a Compounded Gear Oil which was closest to an EP 140..hardly grease at all...I now pump engine oil into the guides with a Wesco before each run...It may not help much, but it can't hurt...There seem to be serious doubts about the behaviour of the solids in modern grease products when faced by cylinder head temperatures. They certainly haven't been tested for it !

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Thanks for all your input...

Richard, your idea of squirting a bit of engine oil down the guides prior to a run is a sound one.. as you say it can't do any harm... 

I took her out for the first run since rebuilding and it was, to say the least, a bit of disappointment. I'd taken great care putting it together (mainly courtesy of Mike Pemberton's excellent DVD). After draining the sump, it started after a few kicks but very smoky. Apart from replacing the valve gear I had replaced the cam bushes, de-glazed the barrel and replaced the rings. I made it a couple of hundred yards up the road and it backfired spat and stop. It restarted but with much misfiring and backfiring. So back to the shed and a rethink. Does this sound more a like a timing or a carburation issue?

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Thanks David.. you were right.. I've just retimed as the points started opening exactly on TDC.. I've retimed to 5/8ths BTDC and will see how well it runs tomorrow.. 

 


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