Commando clutch

Hi Shaun, 

1st Clean your clutch plates, check  condition & see if any gearbox oil has migrated across the shaft (I've personally  never had this problem, reported by some - Dave Comeau fix available from usual parts suppliers) - &  check stack height (see w/s manual) Also check the activating  rod & ball bearing for free play. 

2nd Whilst the plates are out check for notching of the clutch hub (I have this issue & new centre purchased ready to install). This can cause major issues when trying to get into gear (damhikt!)!

3rd Some use ATF in the primary, I've always used  20/50 or 50 engine oil & personally never had any problems with clutch performance.

4th Make sure the clutch activating arm ( in gearbox)  is in the correct position when adjusting in order to get max lift - I'd suggest setting the clutch with the primary off when re-assembling so you can really see the movement.

Mike (mk III ES)

Shaun

Agree with all Mike says above and I have found gearbox oil migrating along the clutch pushrod - and the gearbox was not overfilled.

In addition check the plates are flat using a piece of plate glass - I got mine for pence from the local tip.

Do all Mike says and replace any warped plates and I'm sure you'll notice the difference - I did.

Andy

I fitted an atlas actuator to my Commando. It does change the feel of the lever,,,, it is more progressive, without that 'over the hump' feeling. Youv still got to do the stack height and all the other stuff correctly though to lighten the pull. 

One more thing, you could try increasing the oblique between wrist & lever by rotating the clutch lever downward relative to the handlebar; the 'flatter' it is to the bar, the harder it will be to actuate.

CNW have a hydraulic option which would be a fairly straightforward fit with pre-mk iii switchgear. This was available  from Holland Norton Works on the mainland, couple of weeks left to purchase before it gets complex & more expensive!  I also seem to remember that someone posted an item about making their own hydraulic clutch, but I can't remember if it was on the BI list, NOC-L, AccessNorton or here! 

To be honest, with a bit of patience the standard clutch set up is perfectly acceptable (& squashing billiard balls with your iron grip is a great party trick).

Let us know how you get on!

Mike ;-) 

Is this in the correct position, as with all the above clean plates etc it will help. Are the stell and friction plates the same throughout, sounds daft but you would be amazed what is fitted by the calls I get. Many even miss the back plate in the clutch basket and install plates, usually wrong to accommodate. 

Is the clutch centre notched, the 850 was not kind to original clutch centres, they tried improving them for the 850 in the 70's but missed the trick. 

When setting the clutch the pushrod operating adjuster is best only turned back 1/2 turn. Then leave the required amount of free play on the clutch lever, ride for 30 miles or so then reduce the free play on the clutch lever by a turn on the adjuster - you should now find that neutral engages easily. This compensates for the nipple in the clutch operating lever settling in tighter in the lever. 

If this fails then use the RGM 3mm steel plate and substitute one of the existing steel plates. 

As Mike suggests above with patience you can get the clutch acceptable.