Electrical

Hi All,

No matter what I do I can't get the 3 brush dynamo on my 1929 16 H Norton to charge. The wiring loom is fine and I can see sparks when I press the cutout points and release them. I was wondering if it was easy to change the existing unit to a 2 brush system, if this was difficult to carry out and how to do it?

Many thanks,

Albert Pisani

Malta

I am helping a friend sort out the electrics on his 99. It has a 6V Lucas E3L-L-1- C dynamo. It is positive earth.

A PO has fitted the wires as shown in my sketch attached.

Can someone tell me if the connections are correct, and how it should be wired into the bike?

The final half mile of my road in Bulgaria is very bumpy being made up from railway sleepers.

My Dominator is therefore tested every journey including the electrics.

The law states that the headlights must be on at all times.

A momentary break in the battery connection, I suspect the old switch, routes the alternator current straight to the light bulbs, pop. This was overcome on 12V models with a 15V Zener diode but is there a 7.5V Watt plus diode available to fit on my Norton to stop this problem. 

While at the Ardingly show yesterday I visited Paul Goff's stand to buy a new bulb for my chrono speedo. I have not so far taken any notice of the new trend in LED lighting apart from valuing my LED head torch which goes everywhere with me. Paul sold me an LED pilot bulb for my old and somewhat corroded BPF headlight and a new Higher wattage Halogen main/dip bulb.   WOW , what a transformation . The pilot is now a very bright sharp white and visible for miles , the old Halogen bulb was somewhat blackened internally and the new bulb is far more efficient .

I recently bought a 1966 Atlas 750. It has the magneto situated behind the cylinders. Prior to me getting it, the bike has sat in a dry garage for some 50 years! The screw-on the genny cover plate came off no problem revealing the points mechanism which appears to be in really clean and good condition. The gap is approx 15 thou and it turns easily. The HT leads are in good condition. They screw into the Mag easily and lock down. The armature bushes have plenty of meat on them and are clean. However, there is NO spark on either of the new plugs (N4's) when I kick it over

My headlight switch does not have any of the component's circled in red yet my electrics work. Is my switch broken/incorrect and should i replace it?

Possibly a rather niche question, but I need a new ammeter, and would prefer to buy one that looks correct.

I don't seem to have much luck with ammeters, the one on the bike was dead, so I fitted a pattern one, and the needle fell off after a short mileage. 

Paul

I am thinking of installing some form of  device to one of my 12v alternator bikes. It needs to be small as there is little room in the 130 mm headlamp shell and no space on the bars . I only have access to the ignition switch and earth in the shell (no charging circuit ) . I am not able to determine the size of intrusion into the shell from the AO site info. I do have an existing  unused idiot light in the shell left over after conversion to 12v . No idea what this did .  Its not a Norton  !!. Any helpfull info ?

Hi all, can anyone recommend a 6volt alarm that won’t drain the battery too much?

Thanks

The sales blurb states that lithium batteries should have a special charger, ordinary chargers will damage the battery. Require constant voltage??

Anyway, if this is so, how will the lithium battery behave when powered by the ac stators in all our bikes?