Electrical

I have an MSL1 type magneto on my 1936 Norton Model 18. If I install a kill switch or a oil tap with a magneto connection, is the earth terminal on the top right of the casing in the attached picture the one to connect to?

Thanks

John 

Just a general info question really.  I have renewed several looms on Norton, Triumph and BSA rebuilds. Where posssible, and practical, I have constructed my own small looms.  Why is it then the thickness of the cables on the new looms is thinner than the originals.  Do I assume, then, that the original spec wire was 'over the top' for its intended purpose or that modern copper cable is far more effective; along with battery technology?  I'm rebuilding a '71 Fastback at the moment and will be making my own headlight harness.  What would be the ideal cross section wire for me to use? 

Evening all,

Anyone know how, or if you can re-pin/wire theses Wipac switch bases. Rewiring my ‘66 Jubilee.

This is only peripherally Norton related but I think is a general query. I'm building a Tri-Greeves with a minimal (no lights) 12 volt electrical system with small battery, simple full wave rectifier and Zener diode. I remember from my Commando days that these were fitted with 6 volt coils and ballast resistors rather than 12 volt components. Can anybody suggest why this was, and say why it might be a superior setup? I'm using original points on a 6CA backplate.

I am agonising over fitting an iphone mount to my 1972 Mk2a Commando. The bike is of course positive earth and I worry about doing damage to phone and/or bike electrical system. I have assumed that as long as the phone unit is completely isolated (electrically) then wiring red to negative on the battery and black to positive should not be an issue? If I was confident I would have just gone aghead and done it...

The 1957 99 I am building has been fitted with a modern looking regulator (it's in a nice black box) with a red, a black, a blue and a green wires.

My problem is that there are no markings on the box to tell me which wire must go to the D or F terminal on the dynamo. I assume the red and black are the output wires. It's positive earth.

What measurement can I do on the box to tell me which of the green and blue wires goes to D or F?  

I don't want to experiment in case I blow it up.

I have finally fitted the correct plunger type switch and it works, but:

How are the wires supposed to connect? It's easy to put a bullet in from each end  but they stick out and are clearly wrong.  There is a gap underneath, so the wires could and probably should be fed in there.  But then how are they fixed?  Are they just soldered?

Now that low current LED lamps are becoming common and allegedly effective, how practical is it to change the voltage regulator from 6v to 12v, with a Lucas magdyno?  I seem to remember that the drawbacks outweighed the benefit unless it was rewound. But that assumed the current draw from a filament bulb.

It's becoming impossible to find 6 volt bayonet type conventional headlight bulbs, although later pre-focus ones still seem easy to find.  The earlier type seems to be available at 6v in halogen or LED.  12v will require LED I assume.

Sorry another LED question has anyone purchased a cheap bulb from China?