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Wet sumping

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My 1957 dominator 99 has recently started to wet sump.

On starting up only the left hand pipe smokes but clears after a few minutes and will be fine for the rest of the day.

Also, the head bolts adjacent to the spark plugs on both sides have started to weep.

I have dismantle the oil pump for investigation as being the most probable cause and found that the brass base plate had small grooves worn in by the pump gears. I have removed the grooves by careful rubbing down with emery paper on glass. There is no discernible play in the spindles and the gears all look fine.

A couple of points I would like advise on are:

Is there anything else I need to check while the pump is in pieces?

Should I be looking elsewhere for possible cause?

Would using a gasket (item 062447) between the pump body and crankcase help? I have never had one fitted and there is not one indicated in my 1957 spare parts list. Would it make a difference to fit one now?

Hope this is not going over old ground but I couldnât find anything specific on earlier topics

Many thanks

Mike

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Generally it is the drive side of the oil pump that gives the most problems. The reason being that this is the scavenge and return to oil tank side so consequently wears the most due to sucking up and grinding any rubbish dropped in the sump. It also runs on air quite a lot, firstly on start-up and then once it has cleared the oil from the crankcase.

So check the end plate, on that side, as well as the shaft clearance, gear teeth and gear housing. Any serious grooves or chipping will give problems. The mating face for the pump body does distort with aging and over-tightening of the pump mounting nuts. Always fit a paper gasket and put a scraping of sealant between the pump face and the gasket.

There are several good articles, about these oil pumps, within this website. Check out The Tech section Heavy Twins â Oil Pump Servicing. Use the Search box above and top left for more useful hints from owners. Dommie oil pumps are still easy and cheap to find at A/Js, in OBM Ads and eBay.

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Previously phil_hannam wrote:

Generally it is the drive side of the oil pump that gives the most problems.

What is meant by the "drive side"? There is a top set of gears, a bottom set, the left side is the gasket face and the right side has the outlet to timing cover.

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On dry sump engines the drive gear are the thinner ones, the scavange are normally double the thickness of the drive gears to remove the wet sumping and keep the sump clear, they also have to cope with air from the piston blowby when the breathing can't cope.

Norton follow this rule so just look at the gears.

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My mistake for not being clear with the description. The set of gears and associated chunks, that need a close inspection, are the scavenge gears which are nearest to the driven end of the pump. See attachment.

Attachments
oil-pump-scavenge-gears-bmp

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Previously john_holmes wrote:

On dry sump engines the drive gear are the thinner ones,double the thickness of the drive gears to remove the wet sumping

I have a few pumps apart and the driveshaft drives both a thick gear and a thin gear.

Phil Hannam is referring to the gears closest to the drive pinion as he explains in the next post. These are the thick gears. One scavenge gear is fixed to the shaft (I have never removed one). One thin gear is keyed to that same shaft. One thin gear drives another thin gear only but not the rest of the pump.

There is no gear of any thickness that can remove wet sumping overnight.

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Thanks for all the comments

My pump hasnt been off the bike for 20 years and it has only just started to wet sump. I'm hoping that the wear to the brass base plate is the cause and with this now polished out things will be back to normal. We'll see when its all back together

 



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