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TLS front brake conversion

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Hi.

looking at the front brake plate on my 1964 Atlas. It looks like you could convert the sls, to tls by fitting an actuating cam where the fixed cam is, and by adding another lever arm and tie rod you're have a tls ! I know the shoes would have to be changed too, but has anyone done this ? Or have I made it over simplified ?

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Dave Degens of Dresda Autos used to offer this as a mod for Roadholder forks. He may still do. His brake plate had all the extra parts hidden internally. This was quite clever as it kept the brake plate looking reasonably original. The drawback was adjusting the shoes meant a dismantling job each time. It was also pricey.

On my 1967 Altas, the sls item became fairly useless until I had the drum skimmed and shoes with thicker linings made to match. The result was a stunning change from 'heart stopping' moments to tyre squealing joy. Easier and cheaper than most of the other alternatives around at the time.

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At this point one might ask why the Norton has an external tie rod rather than squeezing the levers together. The BMW hints at the issue - the 'squeeze together' design ends up with one of the cams turning the wrong way - so the BMW has the cams set at different radii from the hub so they both act at equivalent points on both brake shoes.I'm not doing homework mods on my brakes - but if I were then maybe I'd try the 'squeeze together' design.Are there drawbacks?
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Having an earlyLaverda 750 2LS brake in my Dommie with the "squeeze together" design of brake arms, I find that the biggest drawback is that you have to keep a close eye on cable adjustment as there is a lot more cable movement to make the brake work. It does work very well, just has a lot more lever movement. Never did check what the original Laverda lever pivot distance was as have only ever seen later model's after they changed to an external linkage and a fixed cable stop. Maybe I should seek out a different lever!

George.

 


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