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Sticky rings

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I acquired my 99SS engine in traditional box-of-bits form, and my intention was rebore/regrind/new cam etc. When dismantling I carefully removed the rings from their grooves, noticing that they were all stuck in really quite hard (compression and scraper). I assumed they were gummed in - not a problem as I was going to replace them anyhoo.

However I found the bores to be near perfect with the +30 thou Hepolite pistons practically unworn. The piston ring gaps were 20 - 25 thou (are they ever the 8 -9 thou or so Hepolite recommend for air-cooled engines?). Then I read the horror stories about after-market pistons....

So I bought a set of genuine Hepolite +040 rings and filed the ends to give an 008" gap. The problem is they stick in the grooves just the same as the old ones still do, even after vapour blasting the pistons. No visible trauma on the pistons, and they are the same as one another.

Never had this before - is it a known problem? The old pistons and rings were presumably bought together, late seventies, from a Hepolite piston factor.

I am considering lapping 1 - 1.5 thou from the underside of each ring on my surface plate.

The evidence for why my predecessor dumped the Dommi engine in favour of a Commando is mounting.....

Steve

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Steve,

are you saying the rings stick in the grooves after running the engine or straight out of the box? If it's the latter you should have sent them back to where you got them, if it's the former then I think there's something wrong with your bore finish possibly, engine oil used or lubrication system,

Simon.

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Rather than grinding the rings, I would put the pistons in the lathe and very carefully open out the ring recesses a thou or so. I have had Hepolite pistons where the ring lands (the bits between the recess) have tended to flow plastically and make the rings stick. I have also had the lands break off after only a few hundred miles of running in. When I sent them back, Hepolite merely accused me of thrashing the bike and wouldn't entertain replacing the pistons. Not the best customer service.I have never had problems with after-market pistons but over the years have had plenty of Hepolite problems. Heretical I know, but that's just my experience. I am sure Anna will leap to Hepolite's defence, but I wouldn't go back to them.

Gordon.

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Hi Gordon/SimonThanks for your input. I can confirm that the new rings stick straight out the box, but so do the old ones, and to the same extent. Engine hasn't run since late seventies. I think it must have had lousy compression and been as oily as hell.So it doesn't look like a defect in the rings, and genuine Hepolite rings aren't that thick on the ground.I don't have a lathe available to me unfortunately. The plastic deformation idea looks like a possibility, the previous owner may have thrashed it in exactly the way you didn't Gordon.I will check with a feeler to see if there is clearance anywhere round the circumference. Strange that the oil ring is the same as the other two..Steve

Previously Gordon Johnston wrote:

Rather than grinding the rings, I would put the pistons in the lathe and very carefully open out the ring recesses a thou or so. I have had Hepolite pistons where the ring lands (the bits between the recess) have tended to flow plastically and make the rings stick. I have also had the lands break off after only a few hundred miles of running in. When I sent them back, Hepolite merely accused me of thrashing the bike and wouldn't entertain replacing the pistons. Not the best customer service.I have never had problems with after-market pistons but over the years have had plenty of Hepolite problems. Heretical I know, but that's just my experience. I am sure Anna will leap to Hepolite's defence, but I wouldn't go back to them.

Gordon.

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Strange regarding the Hepolite problems. The Commando's running AE (Federal Mogul) pistons and have had no problems. Same when I have used AE Hepolite too and the bike gets taken up to 6,000rpm regularly. Lapping the rings is quite normal to achieve a flat surface, especially after filing, so is possibly the best bet. Also to check for bore ovality a bore gauge is best. No more than 0.0002" (2/10ths of a thou) ovality after boring and honing,

Simon.

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Simon - I do have an internal mic but I don't trust myself to get it square enough to measure to that kind of tolerance.

When I look at these pistons and bores I really think a few hundred miles, tops.

Rings are 0.0625" which looks 'right' must be the pistons which are out of spec. - I will have to lap down to 0.061"

Cheeers

Steve

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I really think you would be better off paying someone with a lathe to widen the piston ring grooves in the pistons. That way, if you ever need to replace the rings you will be able to do so without all the bother of reducing their thickness before fitting them.

Colin.

Previously steve_marshall wrote:

Simon - I do have an internal mic but I don't trust myself to get it square enough to measure to that kind of tolerance.

When I look at these pistons and bores I really think a few hundred miles, tops.

Rings are 0.0625" which looks 'right' must be the pistons which are out of spec. - I will have to lap down to 0.061"

Cheeers

Steve

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Steve, as you already know,its one way or t other, either way will get the job done,but for me after you have lapped the six rings,the pistons will still be out of spec.as will the rings to a certain extent after lapping,.during which,you will probably have to try fit once or twice,and could finish up breaking one --or even two God forbid.

I kind of look down the road to the next guy doing this job,( dont weall?) he too will have the same problem as you have now if you lap the rings.So for me, its the pistons that are not right,I think I would get those sorted if it were me.

As an aside,I noted in your initial post, your comment that you bought a new set of Hepolite +40 piston rings.I must say I would dearly like to know where from,as I am in dire need of a set myself at +40 to fit my AE pistons,so any chance?. This message goes to anyone else in the club who could maybe help me.

Cheers, Mel.

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Hi Mel

Sorry I can't remember! and it was only about a year ago. Sad!. If I come across the receipt I will let you know.

Hand lapping chrome plated rings is seriously hard work. In the end I took the rings to a preceision grinder to have 1 1/2 thou off the underside of the compression rings and 1 1/2 thou off each side of the oil rings (they don't even start to go in the grooves).

The next guy down the road will probably be me (I hope I can put that many miles in).

Steve

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Steve

The barbarous practice of fitting filed down o/s rings will cause you far more grief than an oversize ring gap. If you havn't assembled it yet give this some serious thought.

Bill

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Previously bill_moline wrote:

Steve

The barbarous practice of fitting filed down o/s rings will cause you far more grief than an oversize ring gap. If you havn't assembled it yet give this some serious thought.

Bill

Bill, could you explain in more detail please? I've known many reputable engine builders & engineers to use this method to acheive correct ring gaps &, indeed, have done so myself with no issues whatsoever, although I use a carborundum stone, not a file. I wouldn't perhaps recomend filing a +60 ring to fit a STD bore but if you're using the next o/s up, what 'grief' does it cause?

Regards, Tim

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Mel

Every Hepolite bike piston I have ever worked with has been pretty much the same (apart from 3 piece oil control rings on late ones). Instead of looking for 99 +040" rings I would look for standard 69mm 5TA,T100,T100A or Daytona pistons - eg eBay item number 261249676578.

040" is about 1.5% larger than 1mm, but that shouldn't make a significant difference on 69mm diameter, only about 2 thou. If that bothers you you could get 69mm +020" and file the ends.You can always ask the vendor to confirm the measurementsSteveItem number:

 



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