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Running the oil lines from the filter

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Just running theoil lines from the filter, and notice it is really close to the swing arm spindle and will rub onthe plates.

I have new metal sleeves to fit but from what i can see the sleeves will rub the paint off my newly painted frame.

Do you guys have any solutions.

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Thats a good idea, I was toying with using some black plastic cable tidy but not sure how the heat would affect it.

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Whatever you do make sure the lines are securely attached. I omitted to check this on my first Commando and one blew off with fairly predictable results although fortunately the engine coughed just before locking solid so I was able to grab the clutch - a good thing as the back tyre was soaked in oil.

Two weeks, a reground crank, new conrod and big end shells later we were off on our way to Frankfurt on the Norton......

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I will give them an extra turn thanks.

Good job I still have the filter housing off those oil lines are really close together.

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Also check the stubs on the filter head are not coming loose, latest ones are screwed not pressed in so safer.

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I just had an oil line pop off the oil filter - luckily whilst sat in the garage at home! I just noticed a rapidly expanding pool of oil beneath me. A very lucky escape!

When I got into the fix I found it easiest to attach the filter connections first - with the filter mount loose - then thread the pipes through to make off the oil tank and engine connections last. I suspect I may have the horn the wrong way round? The trumpet part points away from the primary drive. I think life might be easier with the thing pointing the other way?

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Dave that is exactly the way round that i did it, and when i took mine apart the horn was facing away from the primary drive which i suspect it the cordect way round. I will be fitting the horn tomorrow and will try it tbe other way round. it is very tight for space it there with oil lines to rub and wiring to run as well, add to that the mudguard and it has to be correct first go.

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Checked the horn position and mine will fit with the horn facing the timingside and down but will rub the return to the oil tank. It will also fit facing the drive side and not rub anything, but It is very close to the chain and all the rubbish from that is likely to find it's way inside the horn.

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instead of using the metal hose protector could you slide another piece of braided rubber hose over the top of the original one in the positions where it would rub or full length and if needed cable tie in position. just a thought.

no commando, Barry

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I always thought that was a daft position for the horn anyway - and getting it out means virtually dismantling the whole bike. I have visions of the assembly line starting with the horn then building everything else around it.

I had a couple of Fiamma type mounted on the coil brackets.

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Hi Ian

I am a great fan of the Fiam Horns as well, but thought as the horn works and I have refurbished it I might as well fit it.

I do agree you have to remove a lot of kit to get at it.

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I agree with Ian about how Norton's are made - First get a horn and then ...

I am particularly annoyed as I replaced all oil lines last winter whilst I had the swinging arm out and it was a breeze. Having to replace them again now is very awkward. I bought the oil pipe off EBay - can't remember who from though - and it has gone rock hard which is why the oil lines popped off their respective oil filter spigots! Luckily I have some other pipe which I know to be good and have used that for the replacement job.

I found it impossible to retro fit the new oil pipe without an unacceptable kink where it meets the oil tank. This is largely due to trying to get the pipe around the horn. Eventually I used a 90 degree steel tube fitting in the line and the problem was solved. When I have a little more time however I will strip out the wheel and mudguard again and sort it out properly. I may well do as Ian has done with the Fiamm set in order to generally improve the situation for the oil pipes in the area the horn currently occupies.

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That is the exact problem i had with the horn in place facing the timing side it rubs the oil return line armour which for me is unacceptable, and like you say to get any access to it the rear mudguard has to come off.

 


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