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Removing rear wheel

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Hi! Noccers

The QD rear wheel works a treat, it's great being able to release the rear wheel without disturbing the chain wheel etc. Pity I can't get the wheel away from theswinging armunless I jack the frame up by about 6 inches (or metric equivalent}. In the garage no prob, but by the roadside a different manner. My rear mudguard doesn't have a detachable end section. How do you my fellow noccers deal with a roadside puncture? I would appreciate any suggestions.

Peter M.

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I used to find a high kerb and swing the back end over it ,also had to tilt the bike a bit on the center stand,all done with one hand of course ,(i was a strong lad!) , Also at that time we usually had a mate on the pillion to help, The last one i remember was on the M1 at midnight pouring rain /sleet,loaded with camping gear mid febuary on the way to the Dragon rally , we managed so just man up!.

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In this modern age, include breakdown cover in your insurance! That being said,at 77 years of age, I can still remove my Dominator's rear wheel single handed. However who carries the levers, and puncture repair kits these days? I have not had a puncture in the past 30 years, or more.

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Happened to me in November 1977 at about 11pm between Whitby and Midlesborough, near a pub at chucking out time.

A couple of guys got a torch from their Morris Minor and we found a nail in the tyre. Pulled it out with the pliers in the tool kit and inflated the tyre with a tin of Finalec. (Like modern tyre weld rubber solution etc)

Job good enough to get me where I was going, topped up with air a day or so later and changed the tube the next year with the tyre.

No need to take the wheel out but a kerb or some falling ground works well when out on the road and changing / repairing the tube.

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Previously neil_wyatt wrote:

Happened to me in November 1977 at about 11pm between Whitby and Midlesborough, near a pub at chucking out time.

A couple of guys got a torch from their Morris Minor and we found a nail in the tyre. Pulled it out with the pliers in the tool kit and inflated the tyre with a tin of Finalec. (Like modern tyre weld rubber solution etc)

Job good enough to get me where I was going, topped up with air a day or so later and changed the tube the next year with the tyre.

No need to take the wheel out but a kerb or some falling ground works well when out on the road and changing / repairing the tube. A Finelek or similar sounds the way to go, I'm happy to repair a puncture at lesure but could not cope on the road ( too old now) ,recovery is not always as quick as needed. Not sure that the current kit works with a tube?.

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Thanks for the suggestionchaps. I see that the solution is for me to take a body building course and develop some muscle so that I can lift the bike with one hand and remove the wheel with the other. Failing that I can always get Carole Nash to do it for me! Just hope the problem never arises.

Peter M.

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If you fit a pair of panniers you will have room for a spare tube,tyre levers, spanners,two bits of 4"x2" ,a footpump and a puncture kit ( which will always contain a dried up tube of glue)..

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Hi Peter, if you are of average build, it does not take much strength to get the wheel out. With the nuts removed, and the wheel loose, stand on the left side of the bike and lean it against your thighs (still on the centre stand). Without the weight of the wheel, the bike will not tip back. Kick the bottom of the wheel away to, the right, and it will be possible to pull it clear of the mudguard. That being said, I would always take the "Carole Nash" option on the road!

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Of course if you are not into originality, you could adapt a mudguard to have a hinge. I presume manufacturers stopped fitting hinged rear mudguards to save a few shillings. But it's not too difficult to get the rear wheel in and out at the roadside. It has often been said that every bike toolkit should have a pipe and tobacco. By the time you have lit up and smoked your pipe, you will be in a suitably calm frame of mind to tackle the problem. Being a non-smoker, I just fume and panic for 5 mins before settling down to the job.

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My deluxe Dommi mudguard has a detachable back end, and it might be worth modifying yours this winter?. Three plated bolts with captive washers hold it on, and it's also worth fitting a waterproof plug into the light cable so you can put the detached bit to one side. Finalec or similar could go under the seat? Along with a head-torch. Sod's law says it's usually the rear tyre, and someone at Nortons knew that.

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I have just had the rear wheel in and out on my 99 (shot bearing plus broken spoke). My rear guard is a non-standard stainless one, possibly Commando. Looks the part with the huge advantage that the wheel comes out easily with just a bit of 19mm floorboard under the centre stand. There are times when original isn't always best. I will quietly slink off at this point...

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Don't feel guilty Gordon, I've got a spare bathtub and sidepanel, soon have you fixed up!!.

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Wouldn't be the ones that originally graced my bike? Can't see me ever getting it back to its factory state - it has taken me 45 years to get it to its present 'patinated' condition. Poor old thing. Goes OK though.

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Previously John Shorter wrote:

Hi Peter, if you are of average build, it does not take much strength to get the wheel out. With the nuts removed, and the wheel loose, stand on the left side of the bike and lean it against your thighs (still on the centre stand). Without the weight of the wheel, the bike will not tip back. Kick the bottom of the wheel away to, the right, and it will be possible to pull it clear of the mudguard. That being said, I would always take the "Carole Nash" option on the road!

Thanks John.

Might try this method next time I remove the rear wheel, just for practice.Hopefully, I will steer clear of any old nail or shards of glass when I am out riding. If I am unlucky I shall ask Carole to rescue me!

Peter

 



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