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Oil pump fixing screws

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I have just stripped and inspected the oil pump on my 71 and noticed that the end of the 4 slotted screws that hold the pump together were centre punched on end face of the thread end. I'm guessing this is a crude method of thread locking to stop them unscrewing.

Can anyone tell me if these screws are prone to undoing themselves. I would hate to re-assemble to find that the screws are rattling around in the timing cover after a few hundred miles. Although that's unlikely as the engine would probably already be seized through lack of oil.

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That would be a way to lock the screws in place. I have never heard of one of these screws coming loose, and I always just tighten them by hand with the correct sized screw driver. If you are really worried, a drop of Loctite might reassure you. I don't recall seeing oil pump screws locked like this before, maybe the work of a nervous DPO?

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Thank you Colin, it did seem a little odd, no mention of any special treatment in the manuals. I don't suppose slot heads would have been used if there was a chance of them coming loose. I'll just give them a good nip with a hex bit and a small spanner.

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Thanks Dave, my dec 71 model hasn't been on the road for at least 20 years, so that sort of dates my centre punch marks.

A bit of ancient history on mine. Maybe in the light of that a bit of Loctite would do no harm.

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As far as the screw type, slot heads were widely used on Nortons of that vintage. The oil pump design is common to Nortons going back a long way, probably before the second world war. Socket head cap screws were not popular back then. I'm not sure of the screw size, but I suspect 2BA. BA screws in general are not as easy to find as they were when your bike was made.

As far as socket head cap screws on Nortons, I once asked John Hudson why Norton hadn't used those to hold the timing covers and gearbox covers on. His response was that owners would probably over tighten them and strip the threads in the alloy cases.

Colin.

Previously wrote:

Thank you Colin, it did seem a little odd, no mention of any special treatment in the manuals. I don't suppose slot heads would have been used if there was a chance of them coming loose. I'll just give them a good nip with a hex bit and a small spanner.

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John Hudson was very perceptive, the previous owner of my machine only had a kitchen knife a chisel and an adjustable spanner. Just about every nut, slot head or bolt was rounded or mangled. Attached is a picture of my camshaft nut. I think that was his/her chisel phase. QED

Attachments camnut.jpg
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That sort of thing happens when owners are too cheap or lazy to buy a set of British Standard sized socket or box spanners...

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VERY nasty. The proper tools for dismantling are: two hammers -one claw one lump; large & small cold chisels; large flat blade screwdriver and plumber's wrench or molegrips. Trust me, you'll be fine with them. :)

"Box spanner"? Wot's that then? A spanner you keep in a box?

Cheers, Lionel

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Previously wrote:

VERY nasty. The proper tools for dismantling are: two hammers -one claw one lump; large & small cold chisels; large flat blade screwdriver and plumber's wrench or molegrips. Trust me, you'll be fine with them. :)

"Box spanner"? Wot's that then? A spanner you keep in a box?

Cheers, Lionel

I have just fitted the oil pump to a 1959 99 engine I am building up - no centre punching. I wonder when it came in? Or was it something done by a careful owner? Gordon.

P.S. You can't beat an angle grinder for these fiddly bits...

P.P.S. Having been out on the bike through storms and floods yesterday, I can recommend the use of self-levelling grease as a rear chain lubricant. Sadly, I can't recommend the waterproof qualities of Belstaff waxed cotton jackets. I wonder if it has dried out yet.

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They were even supplied in the tool kits with Nortons back in the day. If you are American, you might know them as "Tube wrenches", but since this is a British web site I try to focus on British English.

http://www.boxspanners.co.uk/index.html

Colin.

Previously wrote:

VERY nasty. The proper tools for dismantling are: two hammers -one claw one lump; large & small cold chisels; large flat blade screwdriver and plumber's wrench or molegrips. Trust me, you'll be fine with them. :)

"Box spanner"? Wot's that then? A spanner you keep in a box?

Cheers, Lionel

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I hadn't thought of the claw hammer, I could have used that to remove the nails that are holding my petrol tank in.

The centre punching is definitely one not so careful owner Gordon. They are nearly as bad as the chisel marks on my cam nut.

£5.70 + vat to replace one abused nut. Oh for a lathe or milling machine.

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Hi Colin - it was a JOKE! :) As in - what size nail is a 15amp fuse? I have a lovely range of Melco and Draper box spanners bought a couple of years ago at my local hardware shop - remember them? Still run by the same old chap for the last 45 years thatI know of! The spanners were what you could accurately call "New Old Stock".

Gordon - now you're getting too technical - an angle grinder is what you use in the workshop/shed to remove nuts & bolts. They are difficult to carry on the bike, even with a rear rack. The hammer & chisels are fine though.

Seriously though, I'm pretty sure I've seenphotos of the Norton oil pump with wired setscrews. If they are drilled for it there's certainly no harm in using the wire. I have a reel of stainless, aircraft quality wire I bought from LAS, where you buy the cheapest Dzus fasteners from. They all come certificated for aircraft use, just in case you need to borrow bits off your Norton for your Cessna or Helicopter. You never know when it might come in handy.It's 20SWG (0.036"/0.91mm) aircraft locking wireso you KNOW it ain't gonna break! It says it's 97.5 metres so it will last me a few weeks! If anyone needs some just let me know.

Cheers Lionel

 


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