Does anyone have any articles on its complete removal please. Need to fit a breather tube and can't get a spanner in without the case fully removed. Unless anyone knows better!
Hi Stuart, are you sure yo…
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Thanks for that Adam - I h…
Thanks for that Adam - I have bought quite a few books, apart from the Haynes, and none of them give any detail. The oil bath and associated seals etc don't even appear in the Norton Parts Manual!! Can't get anything on the breather, which is minus pipe, so will have to get the inner cover off. Outer came off easily and I will call in at Norvil in the morning to try to get the parts I think I need and also a clutch puller. Spending loads on tools etc but they will last a lifetime. I have a '69 Triumph and the works manuals are excellent!
stuart
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What breather and why? If…
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I think the post is referr…
I think the post is referring to the crankcase breather behind the inner primary cover. Not having a breather hose means the oily vapors will just get everywhere, I directed my breather hose to "breathe" on the drive chain as it rounds the gearbox sprocket, keeping the chain moist. Yes, the primary drive has to come off, no other way around it.
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Yep it's pretty tight in…
Yep it's pretty tight in there! There is just the open union so I wonder wether there is potential for significant misting and drips. Also concerned that water etc can enter the same way - what seals etc do I need for reassembly? All that's on are botched bits of cut rubber. Would you leave the chain on whilst removing the clutch and drive cog?
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Is this a similar set up t…
Is this a similar set up to a Dominator?, if so I was able to remove the fitting with the case in situ , to re-sweat the pipe ,it was very tight though and needed a lot of Anglo-Saxon expletives.
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Stuart, what year engine i…
Stuart, what year engine is this ? On the pre-'38 and WD engines at least, there is a ball in the breather fitting which should stop any rubbish getting in, but I agree it's worth having a pipe on.
Seals vary - pre-war they were leather and felt but Russells have (ex-WD ?) NOS with rubber washers that do the job. They can vary a little according to the age of the cases though. Some don't seem to have a chamber for a thick washer between inner case and crankcase so only gasket paper can really be used there.
If the primary chain has a spring link then in my opinion, it's easiest to remove the chain first.
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Can anyone tell me what si…
Can anyone tell me what size the nut on the clutch drive shaft is - can't get the clutch basket out and the 1/2 BSW socket doesn't seem to fit. Struggling I'm afraid!
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I'm giving my 16H its win…
I'm giving my 16H its winter once-over at the moment and I check-tightened the clutch last week. I'm pretty sure that it is indeed 1/2" whit.
Is the socket very new ? Some Norton fasteners from this period seem to be on the outside edge of tolerance (and not always truly hexagonal !)
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Richard - the socket is in…
Richard - the socket is indeed brand new! Should I try tapping it with a hide hammer to try to secure it?
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I have found that a 3/8" d…
I have found that a 3/8" drive 1/2" WW socket has thinner walls and fits the clutch whereas the 1/2" drive WW socket won't go on. Worth a try.
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Bought a 3/8 drive 1/2" W…
Bought a 3/8 drive 1/2" W socket it wouldn't fit either! A friend turned the socket down to 29.5mm and bingo - straight in!! The clutch fell into my hand when the nut came off - result. Thanks all!
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Hi Stuart, are you sure you can't get in there once the outer cover is off? That's an easy job, otherwise it's outer off, clutch off (use a puller if it's tight), engine sprocket off (same) then two or three nuts for the inner and you're there.
I use a piece of wood to help prise off the outer cover, it can get a bit stuck.
A standard workshop manual covers the whole operation, nothing really difficult IF you have the pullers to get the clutch hub and engine sprocket off, they are both available; don't use levers against the case, don't use levers against the case, dont use etc
Adam