Norton newby in Kent

Why do you want to use SAE50? Mick Hemmings for parts.

Andrew, if you want to start the bike any time soon I'd go for SAE 30 or 20/50. I run all year round on SAE 40 but changing to 20/50 next Spring, come oil change time for year round lube asoriginal spec.

You may find kicking over your bke hard work in cold weather with SAE 50 and if you look on another thread you will seeit is thought that initial lubrication not so good from cold with SAE 50.Hence why Simon said why SAE 50? Which he might not have said if you were planning to get the bike running in say, July.

Anyway, good luck with it and do let us know how you get on. Just remember that after all those years' standing, the rockers, bores andmains will be dry, so make sure you have oil returning to the tank if you are not removing rocker covers etc That's a lot of kicking............

I think I'd want to strip the carbs or at very least poke the idle passages (remove horizontal mixture screw) with an .016" wire or drill and flush with air or something to blow the debris out. Replace the screw all the way in gently and back out 1.5 turns as a start. Better to strip the carbs really but if you just want to see if she runs.....Assuming it still has points? check the gap and put a new pair of plugs in. NGK BPE7 are a good choice. I'd also hazard a guess the tank is not too nice inside so a flush would be in order and a pair of inline fuel filters. If the tank is rusty the carbs and idle circuit will soon block up. As the others have said use a 20/50 to get started. Depending on how the bike has been stored you may or may not have trouble with the keyswitch and killswitch (corroded contacts). Let us know how you get on and the best of luck getting another old Commando back on the road.

When you do get the bike running, visit the NOC Kent branch.

Hello,

For parts you also have Andover Norton.

Previously andrew_usher wrote:

Thanks chaps. Bike has been upgraded to electronic ignition. I shall flush tank, strip carbs, check air filter, plugs etc. I will have to be careful and prime engine with oil, not sure yet how to do that, more reading necessary! Who's 20/50 do you recommend? I will certainly check out the local NOC meetings....Andrew

I know its an ever growing list of anoying things to have to do, butunless you have a very bright light that can illuminate all thedarkest corners, I would remove the oil tank and flush that out as well. You never quite know what may be lurking in there. A refill of Duckhams or Morris would be OK, but engine oils have had bikeowners arguing for years and I expect there are people who will disagree with both for some reason.

When you flush it out, if there is anything in the tank, like tiny, shiny brass flakes, or lumps ofaluminium,it will be a handy warning.

To prime it take the plugs out, leave the ignition off and kick it for half an hour. Great fun. Its why most Norton owners either have a limp, or a huge right thigh.

Good luck with the bike.

Kev

Just one last thing Andrew. I suspect you may have a Mk 3 Boyer electronic ignition. Nothing wrong with this. My Commando has run A OK on it since 1989. The only issue is, if that is what you have is to make sure your battery has at least 12V, ideally a bit more or it might just backfire, if nothing at all.

Kev wasn't joking about kicking for half an hour until the oil returned. But Velo owners also walk with a limp too.

If you are not in the SW of England I would put some BP Ultimate in your tank, sadly most other super unleaded contains up to 5% Ethanol and will destroy plastics and rubbers and eventually your tank. Also a bit of lead substitute/ replacementwill help, especially if you intend to use the bike hard. I use the Red X brand but if you have to use petrol contaminated with Ethanol then the Millers VSPalternative would be best Good luck.

I haven't seen Duckhams 20:50 for years but anyway, If you can find a friendly racer with a set of start rollers that should get the oil round the system without too much leg action, handy for starting too. Someone in your local branch might be able to help. (we've only got a twig up here in Shropshire)

I resurrected an Atlas that had stood for many years. Just basic checks, oil and petrol and off it went. I did need to replace the main bearings fairly soon after though - I susupect it had been taken off the road due to the main bearing rumble. If something has been taken off the road, there is always a reason!

I use the standard unleaded c/w ethanol. No pinking but have changed the floats to latest Amal stay up after one original float developed a 'bend'. If you're drag racing go for the premium/super to save those tenths of a second on your standing quarters.

I use premium unleaded having had a fuel line dissolve on me when using normal ethanol-added unleaded. Worth the few extra pence per litre I reckon.

Ethanol resistant fuel hose is available - as are carb parts etc. May as well change susceptible parts before they fail. An expensive problem is obviously fibreglass fuel tanks. Are you sure premium is ethanol free?

As you refill the bike with fresh oil and before trying to start it pour about half a pint slowly into cylinder head a little over inlets but most over each exhaust valve. Then buy time you have refitted rocker covers and are ready for the moment of through the oil will have ran through the drain hole by inlet valves into timing case an more importantly ran down the pushrod tunnels from exhaust valves then over cam followers and cam.

If you have any doubt about the carbs a new pair of Amal Premiers is the best bet, they should cure all worn carb and modern petrol issues and by the time you add up the cost of parts needed for single carb convertion they work out the same or cheaper.

I can recommend them and for parts RGM Motors send them out same day so you get them the next day even before the money comes out of your bank!! They are friendly helpful and knowledgeable an sell genuine Andover Norton parts. Mick Hemmings is also good but avoid Norvil as many have reported bad things about them.

Best to avoid Ethanol, caused me lots of damage. BP Ultimate is currently E0 except the SW of England. Also Murcuo Super unleaded is E0 where supplied from their own refinery.

I carry a plastic petrol container for when I'm near E0 petrol for my bikes. You have to plan and fight to keep E0 available so we have a choice. The EU want Ethanol in all our petrol and they alsowant to ban drivers and riders with diabetes and heart conditions. Before long they'll have us on electric bikes. Any suggestions where they can shove their Ethanol then?

Don't understand the anti ethanol mentality from riders with steel tanks - fibreglass tanks obviously a problem, but then would you want to wear a 40 year old fibreglass helmet? Other components, fuel hose, carb floats, fuel seals are easily changed. Is there a bigger point I'm missing?

I use BP Ultimate and other makes which claim to be ethonol free where possible even in my modern bikes. I have had problems in the past with petrol taps and fuel hose. Even though I have replaced these parts I will still use ethonol free where possible. It only costs a few pence more and all my bikes will get at least 50mpg. I don't think there is enough known for or against so until I'm satisfied I prefer to do this. However what do I know, one of my bikes is a 961 !

John Mc