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Managed finally to get all the parts back into the mag only to find that the driving-end cover will not go on properly. It stops with about a 1/16" gap between the cover and the body. It is prevented from moving any closer by the locking nut. I have had it all apart and re-assembled it but no improvement. I've tried tightening the nut as much as poss but to no avail. The mag is an MLO1. I'm really about to give up on this mag project and take Anna up on her very kind offer but I just hate admitting defeat. Any clues? George
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Anna, it's all well and good you stating the above but if we look to your earlier post, you were going to grind the body out to create clearance for an out of true armature. So maybe you can understand why certain reservations have been made.

Is a bit of a mess new armature that'sout of round by 0.005 thou which is just enough to catch in inside the body and make a contact shorting out the magneto process, So the only way I can think of is taking out about 0.005 thou out of the body the magnet fits to one side and its only magnetised steel I am grinding out bit at a time and very carefully to making measurements in-between times on my mill drill I use a fine set of stones from this process . has you cannot take anything off the armature you disturbed the windings inside

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Anna's lathe method is perfectly OK. The armature is constructed in 3 separate pieces...Two ends cast in brass with cast in steel bearing spindles and the laminated steel centre section that the coils are wound on to.

The 3 pieces are located with tiny pins and pulled together with two set screws. It is easy for someone to reassemble them badly and sometimes different pieces are used if something has been damaged (spindle broken for example). After reassembly, it is often the case that the armature is not perfectly true and runs with a slight wobble, so it is fairly common practice for the complete armature to be set up in a lathe and skimmed, although the clearance to the magnet must not exceed 1 thou ( I think) as the concentration of flux through the armature is considerably reduced. Anna seems to saying it is just one small part of the magnet that is out and rubbing which is also a possibilty...not sure if she has skimmed the armature yet though?

Les

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Personally, I would only entrust a magneto to a specialist, not to a marine engineer, or self taught "Expert" Possibly you can get a "Free lunch", but very rarely.

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My "free lunch" has cost me £29 in postage so far John. I've been given an estimate by my new man of around £40 - £45 so I could be in for £74. Oh the benefit of hindsight! George
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Ooops! Nearly forgot. Plus £40 for new bearings, insulating washers, brushes and of course the £25 for the mag body off E-bay. No wonder I had to sell the other bike! George
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Previously John Shorter wrote:

Personally, I would only entrust a magneto to a specialist, not to a marine engineer, or self taught "Expert" Possibly you can get a "Free lunch", but very rarely.

Hello well the expert will be its owner he has more engineering qualifications after his name than me, So George should be well capable of sorting his own magneto me I not that well these days but try to keep going and money is very tight now only working 25 hours a week and that enough for me to be exhausted, for the rest of the week, at why I will not be renewing my membership has I cannot afford it just yet I lots to do and no one to help so there is only me to sort things But hey you guys have a nice time this Sundayat your AGM yours Anna j
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Well Anna, I can help with the money part, I have been emailing you to get an address so I can send you 15GBP for the partsbook coppies, but I have gotten no reply. I have 3 English five Pound notes left from my UK visit last summer, no good to me here, I just need to know where to send it.

Skip

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Previously Skip Brolund wrote:

Well Anna, I can help with the money part, I have been emailing you to get an address so I can send you 15GBP for the partsbook coppies, but I have gotten no reply. I have 3 English five Pound notes left from my UK visit last summer, no good to me here, I just need to know where to send it.

Skip

Hello Skip Sorrymate that you had a hard time getting in contact with me Now today I will go to Goole library and have this parts manual copiedfor you I live some 7 miles from Goole and with working around here, I only get a chance to get to Goolenow and then, its remote countryside here nothing but farmland and trees for miles I will send you my address by Email OK I just getting old and worn-out and forgetful so hang in there you get this part manual in the end yours Anna J
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Almost at the end of this long running saga! Collected the mag from Brian Winter-Baker. New body fitted as the one I handed over had the inner end plate that holds the inner bearing broken off. He'd had it running on his test bed which I witnessed and it was sparking like a good 'un. Total cost £45 so very impressed. For those following this thread the original problems with re-assembly were 1) I hadn't tapped the Woodruff keys in far enough(they were very much an interference fit) and 2) one of the bearings was not in true causing the armature to be spinning slightly off centre hence hitting the magnets. Once trued up it all span proper! Hope to get it back on tomorrow and who knows - I may have the bike on the road buy Easter. Yippee! George PS My grateful thanks to all who contributed to this exceptionally long-running saga. I hope we've all learned something from it. I certainly have!
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By the way - to all those kind guys who offered help, please understand that the guy I went to is only a half hour drive away and came with good credentials so it was simply a matter of finance. Postage on a mag does mount up! CheersGeorge
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Just to tidy up this post - new inlet cam bush fitted, new timing chain, refurbed mag, a few new gaskets and new rocker box bolts. All refitted, retimed (using the rod-down-the-hole technique (suitably corrected for 45deg angle!) pushrods adjusted and - after some initial niggles it now sounds great. Had a test run and all seems OK. Roll on Summer! Many thanks for all your interest and support. George
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Well done George. Please keep us posted as to whether the new bush reduces (or even eliminates) the oil flow into the mag chain case. If it does that is the next job for the 19S. I'm sure I've mentioned this before but the inner steel strip from an old wiper blade is thin enough to go into the plug hole vertically, so no need for the 45? correction. Equally important it is long enough not to get lost in there if you let go.

Cheers, Ian McD

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Thanks Ian. I'll check that out. I've always hated throwing away old wiper blades but couldn't think of a use for them! I have an 80 m round trip to the local NOC meet on Saturday so I'll check the timing chain on my return and report back. Cheers, George
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Just for fun, Ian, I did a sum based on a 14mm plug diameter and a 19mm plug depth to see if it really was vertical. Assuming an infinitely thin blade I make it 81deg above the horizontal so close enough for jazz -as Elvis used to say! The thicker the blade the less the angle above the horizontal. Still better than my 45deg method though. Cheers George
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Looks vertical to me - dfr (do fine rightly)! And there are some handy casting lines on the head to serve as a datum. Just to stir the muddy waters some more do we know for sure that the plug goes in at 45?? Enjoy your run tomorrow.

Cheers, Ian McD

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Gentlemen, may I recommend the purchase of a 16H ? They have a central plug above the piston and no valves to tangle.

I can however confirm that if one lets go of the carefully marked IKEA pencil on the downstroke, it will disappear and be crushed to smithereens before one can say 'Edgar Franks' !

Take it off and do it again !

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Ian - you've spotted the flaw in my argument! I was aware that my 45deg was an assumption. I'll see how she sounds on the run today. Cheers, George
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Bad news George - I measured the plug angle last night, 50? from horizontal. But I don't think you will be re-timing for that!

Cheers, Ian

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Previously George Phillips wrote:
Almost at the end of this long running saga! Collected the mag from Brian Winter-Baker. New body fitted as the one I handed over had the inner end plate that holds the inner bearing broken off. He'd had it running on his test bed which I witnessed and it was sparking like a good 'un. Total cost £45 so very impressed. For those following this thread the original problems with re-assembly were 1) I hadn't tapped the Woodruff keys in far enough(they were very much an interference fit) and 2) one of the bearings was not in true causing the armature to be spinning slightly off centre hence hitting the magnets. Once trued up it all span proper! Hope to get it back on tomorrow and who knows - I may have the bike on the road buy Easter. Yippee! George PS My grateful thanks to all who contributed to this exceptionally long-running saga. I hope we've all learned something from it. I certainly have!

Hello yes becausethe woodruffkey was too fat I filed it up so it would fit right and the threads for the end nut has they been damaged the housing was not one of the best it had damage on it too and a brass shim was missing yours anna j
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Previously Ian MacDougall wrote:

Well done George. Please keep us posted as to whether the new bush reduces (or even eliminates) the oil flow into the mag chain case. If it does that is the next job for the 19S. I'm sure I've mentioned this before but the inner steel strip from an old wiper blade is thin enough to go into the plug hole vertically, so no need for the 45? correction. Equally important it is long enough not to get lost in there if you let go.

Cheers, Ian McD

Hello Never ever use anything metal down a plug hole its damages the top of the piston with small scratches, please use a long artist type paint brush handle end its made of wood and rounded off too then you can simplymark anywhere you like for top dead centre and the like yours anna j
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Sorry for the delay, Ian. I thought this thread was dead. 50? above horizontal gives a vertical difference (from the 45? measurement ) of 2mm or just over 1/16". So the measurement along the inserted stick would be 21mm instead of 23mm or 7/8" instead of 13/16". Not massive but if I'm going to re-do it I may as well try and get it right. See my new thread query about the effect modern fuel may have. Cheers, George
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Righjt! All back together and going like train! I took Ian's figure of 50? at face value and calculated that a 5/8" (16mm) vertical advance was equivalent to a 13/16" (21mm) advance at 50? to the horizontal. I set it just a tad more than that to give me a bit of leeway with the ignition lever and it now sounds like a good punchy Norton should. If only I had fewer baffles......... George

 


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