Model18

Your cylinder may be post 1930.

These had oil feed here.

200ml is what I use in my 1924 and 1928.

1929 engine is in theory the same so I'd start with that.

Once you have run for about 20 miles empty the sump and check amount in.

If its a bit higher turn pump down slightly. If low turn it up.

Better to start a bit smokey!

Do you have the maintenance instructions?  Check out the Vintagenorton web site and download it.  (You'll see it also refers to dry sump engines.)

Remember - with cast iron pistons and ball bearings, you are not on the verge of having the piston seizing up so lubrication is not (or was not considered at the time to be...) as critical as with alloy pistons which are not self lubricating and expand so much more than the barrels.  If you do have alloy pistons, forget all the above!

Your pump should deliver the right amount - if too much, there'll be lots of splashing around in the sump and it will burn off and leak.  Start with some in the sump for the flywheels to pick up and throw around the bearings...1/2 pint maybe?

Any modern oil will be so much better that what they had in 1929 that it should be fine.  Most would recommend a monograde such as Morris 40.  Don't mix with castor oil - what did previous owner use?  If he used Castrol R, you are stcuk with it until you strip the engine.  Castrol seems only to sold in one litre containers (perhaps most is sold in drums to speedway riders who like to use it when running on methanol?).  Morris oils do an equivalent in 5litre containers.

It used to be easy to chat to the old bloke next door about such things, but not so nowadays. In normal times I'd suggest going a local NOC branch and try to find someone familiar with the vintage period bikes.

While I was writing all this, Stephen seems to have given a clear answer!

Hopefully a regular flat tank rider will turn up.  Yours must be an early saddle tank?

Careful with oils.

Check if its on Mineral or Castor oil and stick to what its running on. NEVER MIX

Before I ran this bike I would want to oil up the followers and cams, valve guides and anything I could get to.

I'd also want to know the history clearly. If I had any doubt I'd strip the motor and the crank and check the big end, particularly if its a matching numbers bike.

If you have more history you may mot need to do this.

Cams and followers have a hard life so keep an eye on these.

Any chance of a picture? I'd love a 20's Norton (wouldn't we all?)

I misread your post that you wanted to know how much oil after a rebuild.

Sorry been a long day.

If you built it and oiled everything up prior to assembly then clearly you would know what oil you are running.

If you did the build you will also know to what extent you need to run it in.

Some would recommend 'running in' oils but if you have chosen to run on R then obviously not.

200ml is correct for crankases if you have oiled everything else already.

Must keep checking the levels for your first 150 miles or so.

Its important to make sure you maintain this level.

On my 1924 engine took me a while to get and maintain the correct level. Its a pain to keep emptying and re filling but its very important.

Buy a measuring jug and a small funnel!

Good luck.

Ps

I DO use castrol R and it can be bought in 25 litre drums if you look around.

I have also used Morris (20 litre drum in my garage), and I think Millers do an R equivalent too.

If ever a bike looked like it was doing a ton standing still  ---------------.

On the 29 bikes they seem to use a breather on the rear Union which prior to that would have been the infeed from the oil tank hand pump.

In 29 this seems mainly to have been dispensed with so they instead blank off the front union and use the rear one as breather to primary chain.

I'd look at finding as many parts as you can find before worrying about the rest.

Some bits are easier to come by than others but if you have the frame, engine, forks and tanks its a good start. Do you have any documents? This will make life easier as you can use more replica bits.

There are some poor quality replica primary case castings being made which are best avoided.

Post a picture and the guys here should be able to help.

... and nice workshop!

...was set up during WW2 for the management of Aircraft production.

My Atlas Pedestal drill has the plate also (That's why I checked them out).   

Great looking bike...   ... and workshop!

Cheers

Jon