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head torque from tightening sequence

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Hello,

Can someone confirm the torque settings for the head for me, Taking the tightening sequence diagram from the workshop manual as my reference point;

1, 25 ftlb

2, 20 ftlb

3, 30 ftlb

4, 30 ftlb

5, 30 ftlb

6, 30 ftlb

7, 20 ftlb

8, 20 ftlb

9, 20 ftlb

10, 20 ftlb

This is on a mk1 850

thanks Gerald

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hello start in the middleand work out in stages starting with 10ft lb going around one at a time and be methodical next up 20 ft-lb then 25 to 30 ft-lb then warm the engine by having a short ride and check again good luck with it all you need yours anna-j

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Thanks for getting back to me, and I do know the sequence, what I am trying to do is get the correct torque for the correct bold / nut, basically so I don't over torque the wrong ones

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Previously gerald_kane wrote:

Thanks for getting back to me, and I do know the sequence, what I am trying to do is get the correct torque for the correct bold / nut, basically so I don't over torque the wrong ones

Does this help ?

The torque settingsare:Cylinder head bolts and nuts 3/8 in: 30 Ibs./ft.Cylinder head bolts 5/16 in.: 20 Ibs./ft.

Cylinder base nuts 3/8 in. : 25 Ibs./ft.

Cylinder through bolts 30 Ibs./ft.

Tony

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Thanks Tony,

From the manual it looks like 1 though 8 are 30 lb ft and 9 and 10 should be 20 lb ft are you saying 2, 7 and 8 should really be 25 lb ft ?

Gerald

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Previously gerald_kane wrote:

Thanks Tony,

From the manual it looks like 1 though 8 are 30 lb ft and 9 and 10 should be 20 lb ft are you saying 2, 7 and 8 should really be 25 lb ft ?

Gerald

Hi Gerald,

No, as Tony states only 3/8"fastenings 30 lb/ft and 5/16" 20 lb/ft pulling down the head. The other fasteners are holding the barrel in place.

Some of the head fastenings are a sod if not impossible to torque down. However if you're not too good at feeling the torque try pulling the spanner against a set torque wrench with a spring balance and note the poundage when it clicks. Clearly pull squarely and from the same place.

Dave

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Previously gerald_kane wrote:

Thanks for getting back to me, and I do know the sequence, what I am trying to do is get the correct torque for the correct bold / nut, basically so I don't over torque the wrong ones

Hello Me againto not go over the same one as you all ready Torqued up use a red making pen that easily wipes off later only trying to help yours anna j

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Here are some photos of how to use a torque wrench to bring the correct torque to tighten the cylinder head nuts or any other nuts come to that. Luckily the 1/4 BSF combination spanner lends itself to use with a 1/2" square drive torque wrench. The thing to maintain is an angle of 90 degrees between the combination spanner and the torque wrench

Attachments sdc12596-jpg
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I'm sure it will be five minutes before someone is on my case telling me that this method is flawed however it is recognised in the aviation world and the length of the combination spanner is not important. The 90 degree angle is though, ( to the best of your ability.)

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Hi Dave,

It is also worth mentioning (although may be obvious) that a gentle touch is required. You must not push or pull on the torque wrench at other than 90 degrees to the handle or hold onto the 'join'.

Also you should use the shortest extension spanner you can as the longer it gets the greater the error will be. Although probably still well within the average accuracy of an uncalibrated wrench.

Tony

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Hi Tony, What a "medium" extension spanner will allow is a more accurate judgement of your 90 degrees and this technique will put you in the ball park rather than nowhere near

 


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