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Final piece in handling jigsaw

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This message is intended for the benefitof riders who wish to improve upon their bikes handling.

Further to my recent article kindly reproduced by the RH Ed, Ihave nowsolved my Commando's handling problems. Several years ago, after taking advice from Norman White, I fitted 18" rims, 1.85" front and 2.5" rear, Bridgestone BT45's 100/90 front, 120/80 rear. These caused strange results on the road.

After I carried out extensive work last yearthe front and rear wheel centre lines are within+/-0.010" to thetrue frame centre line. After speaking to Avon tyres I have now fitted 100/90 x 19" Roadriders front and rear to 2.5" rims. After recent spirited ridingtheresult is rock solid handling over bumpy Shropshire roads. The Commando hands free handlebar wobble has totally disappeared as to has the white line shimmy. Isolastics are set to 0.006" all round inc. head steady. There is no steering damper fitted and I do not see the need to fit one in the future.

The testing's been done during the recent chilly but dry spell. Warmer weatherwill enable me to enjoy the handling improvement to the full. Roll on Summer!

Thanks to Doug Richardson (ad in RH) for supplying accurately drilled rims and wheel building advice.

Simon.

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I am surprised that Norman White recommended such a low profile rear tyre. From my limited experience, they just don't suit Nortons. Funnily enough, despite their good reputation, I found BT45s didn't do a lot for my wife's Yamaha - very uncertain handling when pushed on a bit - a pair of Avons restored its ability to kick up sparks on corners with confidence.

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To be fair to Norman White, his extensive experience comes from short circuit racing and his recommendation is possibly intended there. 18" wheels will give improved turning rates, and the tyres will be on a lighter machine with considerably harder dampers. All somewhat different from "bumpy Shropshire roads".

18" does work on the rear when shod with a larger tyre, although whether the larger tyre offers any benefit is debatable. When I switched from the 19 to the 18 rear there was no worsening of the 'wobble'. The biggest improvement always comes with the fitting of new tyres, which shows how we gradually get used to the the old ones.

The general view seems to be that 19" wheels (front?) are more stable. I would suggest this is due to greater gyroscopic inertia damping the 'wobble'. Logically, heavier steel rims should be better than alloy ones.

I did like your RH article on isolastic adjustment Simon. Interestingly, you say that the bike still had 'wobble' despite those perfect isolastics. It all suggests that 'wobble' has nothing to do with imperfect shimming but is caused by other frame/fork effects. Years ago I saw a Commando that had some 3/8" movement in the front isolastics as we yanked the rear wheel about while holding the frame. We asked the owner if it rode round corners ok and he said it was fine!

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If you get a pencil and paper and work out the contact point of the tyre when leaned over appreciably, you will see that with a low profile tyre it is appreciably different from that of a 'normal' or original high profile tyre. Take a moment to work out how the forces are acting on the bike. Absolutely fine if the bike is designed for it, but as a retro-fit it can alter the handling characteristics appreciably - for better or for worse.

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Ireasonedgoing back to standard wheel diameters was the next logical step after I'd ensured wheel and frame alignment was to within acceptable tolerances but still had the wobble.

I agree withNorman that the greater gyroscopic forces from the larger dia. front wheel contribute to reducesteering wobble, but it was after talking to Alan Throssell at last years Borders rally that persuaded me to go to a 19" rear as well. The greater rotating mass of, say, an120/80 or 110/90 x 18" rear tyre compared to a 100/90 x 19" willgenetrate greater forces and I concluded must have a detrimentaleffect on the steering.

Whatever the theory the bike is handling significantly better than standard and I am convinced any bikes wheel to frame alignment is absolutely critical toachieve acceptable road holding plus the correct wheel/tyre sizes.I have tosay if a pukka racer was to thrash my bikethey may be able to highlight deficiencies, but it's all relative.I'll let you know when (if?) I need to modify my exhaust pipes.

Simon.

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Hi Simon, Iâm pleased to read my advice made the same improvement to your bike, that it did to mine.

The trouble with tucking in the exhaust pipes, you then will need to raise the footrest (or have folding ones) then the centre stand has to go, next the side stand. Before you know it you'll be wearing knee sliders. :thumbsup

 


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