Dave Taylor headsteady

Previously alec_stevens wrote:

Given that a Dave Taylor headsteady is a "good thing"are there any issues about the engine being 1/4" off set to the left....

Alec,

The issues you need to be concerned with ref. handling is the rear wheel offset to left of the frame centre line, on average by 0.25", and swingarm axis not square to steering head axis. A rod-end, or even isolastic, head steady can not correct, or compensate, for severe mis-alignment,

Regards,

Simon.

The Taylor head-steady is set up neutrally with the rider seated on the machine and none of the joints loading-up. One of the good things about it is the large range of adjustability so there is no worry of pulling things out of line.

If you've ever wondered how critical the top triangulation is on the Commando, try taking the steady off and turning the handlebars. The motor will twist alarmingly.

In my opinion, the steady is an improvement at all speeds, even at forty or fifty mph, it makes the whole thing feel much more precise, especially over poor surfaces. Bearing in mind that the standard device consists of two metalastic rubbers of who-knows-what composition alternately pushing and pulling until they become unbonded, this is perhaps not surprising.

My only 'reservation' is that I understand they can be problematical to clamp on the Italian-built metric tubed frames that made up a proportion of production during some years. It surprises me that RGM doesn't offer two alternatives for this reason.

I have a post-production Andover replacement frame and mine fitted perfectly. Better steering than a standard steady and less vibration than a Norvil isolastic type.

Previously richard_payne wrote:

My only 'reservation' is that I understand they can be problematical to clamp on the Italian-built metric tubed frames that made up a proportion of production during some years. It surprises me that RGM doesn't offer two alternatives for this reason.

The clamp was a loose fit on my frame, a quiet half hour rubbing the mating faces down on some wet and dry and all was sorted.

Will it fit under a steel Roadster tank?

Previously richard_mills wrote:

Will it fit under a steel Roadster tank?

It fits under mine no problems. I put the Taylor headsteady on at the same time I replaced the TT100s with Avon Roadriders. It totally transformed the bike for the better.

I've had it fitted under a normal Roadster tank and also the rather horrible seamless Mk3 tank which has a base that appears to have been beaten on a sand bag rather than a proper pressing.

On the latter, I did have to be careful about the the wiring and cable run, particularly as the standard Mk3 harness has rather a large collection of chunky connectors in this area. No problems in use though.

Previously richard_payne wrote:

I've had it fitted under a normal Roadster tank and also the rather horrible seamless Mk3 tank which has a base that appears to have been beaten on a sand bag rather than a proper pressing.

For use on the Mk3 is it necessary to buy the 'with spring' set up, or can the OE Norton spring unit be cobbled to fit? £26 price difference!!.

No question of cobbling, Charles. If purchased with the spring, it simply comes with a stainless copy of the standard assembly. The existing part will fit straight on.

Thank you Richard. I may well invest, should also solve the pain in the butt middle allen screw, too. With the current set up none of my keys/wrenches have sufficient length to tighten it properly, and the frame tube precludes using the 'long' end either. I could raise the screw with an extra washer or two, but at the loss of thread depth

I wouldn't go without the middle allen screw. My head steady came loose enroute to the Wicklow rally. Probably because I has failed to tighten it properly during my hasty rebuild. Two issues arise in this situation. The handling without the head steady attached is lethal and, what's rattling around under the tank can do plenty of damage to the tank. Trying to find 5/16 BSF screws in darkest Eire was taxing also. Even if it takes 30 minutes to fit that screw, it's time well spent. It didn't get put there for show and it triangulates the attachment.

Which is best ? The dave taylor or the norvil head steady. i'll have to get one or the other as the weave at 70mph. is beginning to annoy me.

I've already renewed the rubbers in the isolastics front and back and adjusted the verniers to 5 thou. so the next step is the head steady.

Colin

My feeling is that the Taylor steady is easier to set up with minimal vibration and sideways movement is effectively zero with no restriction fore and aft.

However, a Commando should not be weaving in a straight line at 70mph, even if fitted with simply a standard 750 steady.

Simon Ratcliff's post above is pertinent here.

If you have a disc front hub then the first and easiest thing to check is that the rim has been trued central in the forks (and not central to the spoke flanges) Many wheelbuilders fail to do this (the disc side must stand almost vertical) and an offset front wheel, however you attempt to line it up with the rear will mean that the bike is constantly fighting with itself.

Thanks Richard...I shall check the wheel alignment again and put a

dave taylor steady on my list. I am using TT100's by the way.

Colin

p.s. May be extra rubbers in the isolastics would improve things as well?? Colin

Previously Colin Fairall wrote:

Thanks Richard...I shall check the wheel alignment again and put a

dave taylor steady on my list. I am using TT100's by the way.

Colin

p.s. May be extra rubbers in the isolastics would improve things as well?? Colin

Colin,

The isolastic rubbers have no effect on handling. They allow the engine/gearbox/swing-arm assembly to move vertically up and down and absorb the engine vibrations. The clearance between the isolastic thrust washers does affect handling.

With a properly aligned frame TT100's should work very well. The problem is that the alignment is all over the shop. Rear wheel is offset to the drive side away from the frame centre line. Swing-arm axis is not square to the steering head axis in the plan or end view. This causes the rear wheel to move to the left and right, viewed from the rear, as the suspension moves up and down. Creates instability over bumps, in a straight line or when cornering.

With the rear wheel offset to the driveside, the only way to align the wheels is by angling the rear wheel within the swing-arm, by unequal adjustment of the adjusting set screws/bolts.With the bike in motion the front wheel steers straight due to castor/trail effect, but the rear wheel is pointing to the right. The rider then has to counter steer to go some thing like in the desired direction.

With the frame assembly correctly aligned a Commando steers and corners with out any problems what so ever.

Its the Italian frame where the clamp is loose and needs the faces filed down for it to grip adequately. It uses 25mm tube not 25.4 mm tube so you have a UK Reynolds frame. So if yours is still not clamping then you have another issue than an Italian frame.

A thick coat of powdercoat can make fitting a DT head steady interesting, needing either removal of the powdercoat or opening up the bracket.

For the benefit of non-Commando owners, please explain what a Dave Taylor head steady is, and how I can look them up.

When I got my Dominator, it had a handlebar flutter at 35mph. I discovered that the front wheel was offset 1/4" to the right, and also that the rear wheel was offset 1/4" to the left. With that dealt with, the flutter disappeared.

Paul

Previously alec_stevens wrote:

Given that a Dave Taylor headsteady is a "good thing"are there any issues about the engine being 1/4" off set to the left, is there any problem about running out of adjustment, general lack of room or any thing like that? Also,would someone who"s idea of a mad Sunday, might be 80 m.p.h now and again, get as much out ofa D/T steady eddy as youreallymad bastards out there .? Thanks all.

Previously paul_standeven wrote:

For the benefit of non-Commando owners, please explain what a Dave Taylor head steady is, and how I can look them up.

Here are some good pictures of it:

http://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/csi/1245184/f/pdf/head_steady_instructions.pdf

It is like a miniature Panhard rod so it lets the engine move freely up-and-down and fore-and-aft but not sideways. It can only be used on the Commando though.

If anyone wants a DT head steady I've got one for sale in the classifieds section. Brand new, never fitted at a useful saving from New