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Cutting out at idle

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Bike starts, idles( 900-1100 when warm) and runs fine, battery voltage when running is up near the 15v mark and drops to around 13-13.5 at idle so low voltage Boyer problems shouldn't be an issue. Single 32mm Mk1 concentric with a 3.5 slide, 270 main and 106 pilot with needle in the top groove.The problem is when coming to a stop, as I'm slowing down and coming down through the gears it'll cut out unless I keep a bit of throttle on, once I kick it back into life it'll idle ok again, this doesn't happen all the time and I'm convinced it's a fuel thing, I've had the air screw out and blown it through with carb cleaner which I can clearly see coming out of the holes in the carb body. I thought it might be a fuel starvation problem but then that would show up elsewhere.Anyone experienced this sort of thing and found a remedy?

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Have experienced the same problem from time to timeon both my Commando 850 bikeswhich both have the original twin Amal set up. Probably a combination of engine age and Amal carb wear. Suggest you increase idle a tad by screwing in throttle stop screw - a slightly faster tick-over won't hurt. Also try different pilot air screw positions in combination with the throttle stop setting - some trial and errorfiddling required but you get there in the end.

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Wear occurs between slide and carb body on standard Amals at a rapid rate. From new there seems to be alot of clearance between these two items.My bikehas suffered from similar symptoms in the past, but since having thebodies bored to remove wear (I use two rubber mounted carbs) and slides brass sleeved to approx. 0.001" clearance this problem has stopped. I think it is due to air leaking past the sides of the slide on the engine overrun i.e when the carbs are shut resulting in a highvacuum and therefore a weak mixture occurs resulting in the engine stalling. It appears o.k on tickover because the engine revs are less and so the engine vacuum is less and the air takes theroute throughthe slide cutaway thus giving a more correct air/fuel ratio,

Simon.

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Fuel starvation would be indicated whilst moving as the system could not replenish the bowls quick enough, usually indicated when you crack open the throttle and the bike stutters as the bowls try to refill. Go with James plan and this should cure it.

High vacuum is good, but it must be felt across the pilot jet as it will lift fuel with the effect of the venturi through the carb. Low speed of air across the venturi = less vacuum and less fuel lift through the pilot system, this explains why your carbs do leak fuel whilst the engine is stopped as there is no air through the carb to lift the fuel. Remember engines stop for 2 reasons, no sparks or no fuel, you know you have sparks, so it must a fuel issue. With the above in mind you should be able toachieve a good setting. If the slides are really worn, this would account for the drop in speed of the air over the pilot jet. If needed, then renew as above or maybe new carbs a better and cheaper solution. My twin AMALS have covered 28K and the slides are still good, just seems a case of dodgy engineering standards in the 70's as to whether you got good ones or bad ones.

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Ashley,

the vacuum I refer to is created by the pistons descending on the intake stroke. This vacuum does not 'lift the fuel through the pilot system' as you mention, but creates a negative pressure thus air flows through the carbinto the engine.Venturi is the effect the narrowing of the carb port has on fluid pressure. As air flows through the restrictionits velocity increases and it is this which creates a lower pressure than atmospheric at the restrictionand thus fuel flows from the float bowl through the pilot system and into the engine.

So when the throttle is shut,e.g changing down, the engine vacuum is relatively high due to engine speedand so theair velocitythrough the carb is relatively high which creates greater negative pressure across the restriction due to the Venturi principle so fuel flow through the pilot system also increases. Therefore if the engine idles and starts easily I suggest the carb/slide gap is too big i.e excess air is mixing with the fuel on the overrun, weakening the mixture and stalling the engine.

Your carbs should not leak when the engine isn't running and if they do it hasabsolutely nothing to do with the Venturi principle.

Also there are more than two reasons why an engine wont work.

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When I rebuilt the bike I bought a brand new carb jetted suitably for single carb use and made the ASSUMPTION that all I would have to do is tweek the idle and airscrew to have it running ok. The one thing I didn't think I'd need to play with was the float height WRONG!

Looking into the problem some more I decided to check it out and found it set at 6 rather than the recommended 2mm, with a few bowls of hot water and a few wee taps on the valve housing it's now set as it should be, and on my last run out seems to have cured the problem. Wouldn't it have been easier to make some bendable tangs on the float rather than the hit and miss method tapping the valve housing in and out the float bowl?

C'est La Vie that's why we have these bikes is it not?

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Every day's a school day as they say, glad you've got it sorted. Personally I enjoy improvingthe bike fromits 'as it left the factory condition'but not having to modify brand new components and spares which is an all too common problem,

Simon.

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Mac Macdonald wrote; Wouldn't it have been easier to make some bendable tangs on the float rather than the hit and miss method tapping the valve housing in and out the float bowl?

Amal now make an ethanol resistant float that also has a metal bracket that can be bent to set float height.

"The new adjustable height StayUp float is resistant to modern ethanol based fuels and has a military spec closed cell construction making it puncture proof. The ability to adjust the float arm allows for quick and easy minor alterations to float levels where required."

They retail at £12 inc vat.

 


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