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Conical front wheel

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Hi all,

I'm currently building a Norton CafÃ? racer based on a 750 Atlas and I plan to use conical wheels from the late Triumph/BSA models. The rear wheel conversion seems to be well catered for, with either a special wheel spindle with flats machined on it, or a purpose made box section alloy swinging arm.

However, I've not seen any parts readily available to convert the front conical hub to fit the Norton roadholder forks.

Does anybody out there have any experience in such a conversion which retains the BSA TLS brake plate. There's an article in this months Classic Bike Guide which shows a Triton with a conical wheel fitted with a Commando brake plate, but I don't want to go down that road as the BSA TLS brake offers much better performance.

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Previously Jim Brierley wrote:

Hi all,

I'm currently building a Norton CafÃ? racer based on a 750 Atlas and I plan to use conical wheels from the late Triumph/BSA models. The rear wheel conversion seems to be well catered for, with either a special wheel spindle with flats machined on it, or a purpose made box section alloy swinging arm.

However, I've not seen any parts readily available to convert the front conical hub to fit the Norton roadholder forks.

Does anybody out there have any experience in such a conversion which retains the BSA TLS brake plate. There's an article in this months Classic Bike Guide which shows a Triton with a conical wheel fitted with a Commando brake plate, but I don't want to go down that road as the BSA TLS brake offers much better performance.

Hi Jim,

Much better performance than a TLS commando? Wonder why we used to refer to these as "comical" hubs back in the day.

Best regards for Xmas,

Chas

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I rebuilt a BSA Thunderbolt a few years ago and the conical hub brake was dreadful. I believe you can get longer operating arms to work the cams but they are very expensive. The conical wheel is clamped between the fork legs and the end caps so the left to right position is taken care of. The norton spindle pulls the whole plot across to one side. So some kind of new spindle would need making to clamp the whole Conical hub, bearings and brake plate across to the side. Must be do-able. Buy a lathe (-:

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Previously chas_goupillot wrote:

Much better performance than a TLS commando? Wonder why we used to refer to these as "comical" hubs back in the day.

Hi Chas

I can only speak from experience. I've several Nortons with the Commando brake including stiffening kits and a BSA OIF Firebird with the comical and I know which one I'd rather have in an emergency.

Regards

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Previously david_evans wrote:

I rebuilt a BSA Thunderbolt a few years ago and the conical hub brake was dreadful. I believe you can get longer operating arms to work the cams but they are very expensive. The conical wheel is clamped between the fork legs and the end caps so the left to right position is taken care of. The norton spindle pulls the whole plot across to one side. So some kind of new spindle would need making to clamp the whole Conical hub, bearings and brake plate across to the side. Must be do-able. Buy a lathe (-:

Hi David

I think you're right, I'm probably going to have to sort something out myself. I'd do the machining myself but the ex got my lathe in the divorce settlement. I was hoping there was a proprietary kit of parts available to save some of the leg work.

Thanks anyway

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Hi Jim, et al,

The big difference between the BSA /Triumph and most other TLS brakes is the operating system. The BSA type is 2 single leading shoes that are pulled together so the pressure equalises on both shoes. This seems a good method but lacks the vital factor of a full TLS which is the servo effect of a rod connected set-up. Peter Williams wrote an article about 3 years ago in Roadholder describing how to set them up. A properly set up TLS should be able to lock the wheel at walking pace. The big problem is getting it just right and once it is right don't touch it unless you have to. I would think you could convert the conical set-up to rod connected and there may be something already on the market. Regards, Richard.

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I didn't really set out to discuss the virtues of the BSA brake plate compared to the Norton Commando brake; I just wanted to find out if anybody had experience of fitting one. However, for those who are not familiar with the so called comical brake plate I've added a few pics that will hopefully explain the differences.

Pic 1 shows the expansion of both shoes occurring on the leading edges just like on the Norton brake. So by definition can be termed a twin leading brake with all the benefits of servo action that that brings. The BSA shoes are also floating which serves to equalize wear across the linings. The BSA brake is designed to be totally rigid between the cam side of one shoe and the pivot side of the other, unlike the Norton which was completely unsupported until the introduction of the stiffening kit. Another nice feature is the shoe adjusters which keeps the cam levers in their optimum position for braking efficiency.

Pic 2 illustrates how much larger area the linings are on the BSA brake are compared to the Norton at something like 40%.

Pic 3 shows the double acting nature of the BSA brake levers compared to the more elegant linkage arrangement on the Norton. This particular BSA brake plate has the longer arms fitted from the ill fated Fury/Bandit models and I believe late B50 models also. At a mere 3/8" longer this equates to 25% reduction in effort to operate them.

I've never said the Norton brake is particularly bad, as I use them on my other Norton's it's just that the Conical brake requires a lot less effort and has much more bite. All brakes have the ability to be dire in operation, mainly down to other factors rather than design.

Regards Jim

Attachments Pic%202.JPG Pic%203.JPG techn
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Using the BSA/ Triumph conical hub with roadholder forks is not difficult.When I built my 88/99 from a pile of bits, I found that I had a BSA/Triumph rear conical hub so Rather than buy a standard Norton front hub, I aquired a BSA/Triumph conical front hub. The original spindle is 15.875 mm diameter, the Norton one 17 mm, If I rember correctly. I changed the wheel bearings from Hoffmann 120 to 47mm od, 17mm id, 14 mm width double sealed ball races. I also used a spacer between the two bearings to resist thrust. A friend with a lathe made it in Dural. The brake plate on the BSA/Triumph set up is located by a stud which slots into a hook on the fork slider. I removed this and found a friendly expert welder to fit to the brake plate a section of dural about 45mm long and a sliding fit into the slot in the roadholder slider.

I seem to remember that I needed to raid my stock of odd washers and spacers to get a perfect fit. Finally I drilled and tapped a small hole in the slider to take a small grub screw to take up any slight play between slider and brake plate.

The hub was then spoked into a Borrani WM2* 19 rim and looks good. The brake, properly set up using the adjustment cams is pretty good, The bike is quicker than I am.

This pictures shows the final result.

Attachments 004-2014_08_16-09_07_25-utc-jpg

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