Clutch adjustment laydown gearbox

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

There is not any spring fitted,but no real reason not to fit one. Half a turn is a bit more than is often needed. A spring will just add to the effort needed.

Hi Robert when i said half a turn it was more like 1/4 of a turn if that yes i think i will see if i can fit one not a powerfull spring just enough to keep the free play and return the lever after letting it go. Baz

Previously adam_davis wrote:

If you fit a spring....

....wouldn't that mean you would be using up the free play that the cable needs to ensure that the worm isn't touching the pushrod permanently?

i.e. the clutch would be 'on' all the time.

The adjuster on top of the gearbox gives you the correct play in the cable.

Apologies if I've misunderstood the situation.

Hi Adam the compression spring would fit over the inner cable above the clutch arm having the effect of returning the arm to rest leaving the free play. and returning the clutch lever to its stop .like i say not a hefty spring just enough to do the job. Baz

Previously charles_bovington wrote:

The owners manual tell you to set the worm in approximate contact with the push rod ,hold the worm with a screwdriver in the end slot, release the pinch bolt and set the lever at 45 deg. below horizontal . Then tighten the pinch bolt, engage the cable and take up the slack using the adjuster screwed into the gearbox. The actuating lever should be horizontal when the clutch handlebar lever is depressed.

Hope this helps

Hi Charles thank you for the information on how to set it up i will try it and see how it goes. Baz

Previously richard_cornish wrote:

Hi Barry,

Charles seems to have the answer, but the way I adjust the cable is as follows. Firstly make sure the cable is the correct length, not the overall length but the difference between inner and outer lengthsis correct. Fit the cable with the adjuster scewed into the gearbox just over half way with the nipple in the alreadyloose operating arm. Screw in the worm and hold in place while pushing down the arm to take up the slack in the cable, continue to hold the worm in position while you tighten the pinch bolt making sure the end of the worm and the arm are flush with each other on the outside edge. Check the handlebar lever and setthe gearbox adjuster to give about 3mm of slack on the lever before you feel the spring pressure come in. If you have de-burred the clutch centre and the plate tags and lubricated them and the cable and have decent springs the lever should spring back with a crisp clunk. I think the problem was backing off the worm, so keep to pressure while you tighten as the worm screw TPI is too course to make the adjustment.

Good luck, Richard.

Hi Richard thanks for the information, the clutch seems spongy not a crisp feel to it. i think i will strip it down and see how the clutch plates are for wear and check the springs to. Baz

Previously richard_cornish wrote:

Previously barry_carson wrote:

Previously richard_cornish wrote:

Hi Barry,

Charles seems to have the answer, but the way I adjust the cable is as follows. Firstly make sure the cable is the correct length, not the overall length but the difference between inner and outer lengthsis correct. Fit the cable with the adjuster scewed into the gearbox just over half way with the nipple in the alreadyloose operating arm. Screw in the worm and hold in place while pushing down the arm to take up the slack in the cable, continue to hold the worm in position while you tighten the pinch bolt making sure the end of the worm and the arm are flush with each other on the outside edge. Check the handlebar lever and setthe gearbox adjuster to give about 3mm of slack on the lever before you feel the spring pressure come in. If you have de-burred the clutch centre and the plate tags and lubricated them and the cable and have decent springs the lever should spring back with a crisp clunk. I think the problem was backing off the worm, so keep to pressure while you tighten as the worm screw TPI is too course to make the adjustment.

Good luck, Richard.

Hi Richard thanks for the information, the clutch seems spongy not a crisp feel to it. i think i will strip it down and see how the clutch plates are for wear and check the springs to. Baz

Hi again Barry,

Just to make you aware of a couple of points that might effect your clutch not returning easily. Make sure everything moves easily including the cable, mainshaft push rod and mushroom. The clutch centre and basket can become ridged where the plates dig in and this must be smoothed out and don't be afraid to grease these parts but sparingly. One final point that you may not be aware of is that the plain plates with the internal tabs have a bias. The tabs are not flat, but are purposely raised on one side. The difference is very slight and you will need to check this with a straight edge or surface plate. When you have sorted the plates they need to be fitted with the tabs pointed out towards the pressure plate and if you fit them the other way round this will make the release action rough. The PItmans manuals are worth getting.

Regards, Richard.

Hi Richard, i will check the plates and clutch Centre and other parts for ridges . i was not aware that the plain plate tabs have a bias thanks for that i could have made things worse not knowing. thanks again . Baz

Previously richard_cornish wrote:

Hi Pual / Barry,

I think this may be a method that was inherited from the Sturmey Archer days in a time when the bikes were hand built, although " setting" the tabs would be a quick operation with a fly press. I would guess if owners doing their own maintenance missed this point it would be more trouble than advantage, so it's possible this was overcome by increasing the clearances and makingflat tabs work O.K.A bevel edge on the inner face will give the same effect as putting any set of the tabs/dogs on the outside which is to ease the movement of the plates as they close under spring pressure. I have no professional traning or businessinterests in Norton motorcycles and any tips are purely arbitrary but hopefully useful andhave worked for me over the last 40+ years.

Best wishes, Richard.

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Hi Richard, no problem. i will strip the clutch down and check all the parts for wear and replace what needs doing. Baz

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