Hi, Stanchions form Burton bike bits (UK made Hard Chrome) Wassell fork bush and seal kit from the Owners Club.
Lower bush. Galled badly on the new stanchion. Fitted but had to use a sleeve and hammer it home. Big mistake. It fits ok in the slider thank god as I'll never get it off. Upper bush. Galling badly on the stanchion. Dressed with wet and dry but can only get it 1/4" from the top of the stanchion before it sticks.
I did a quick check with the vernier gauge on the new stanchions against the old ones in an unworn area. New ones a fraction larger. That may be the problem. Thought it was the bushes as they look a bit cheap compared to the old originals.
I guess its back to Burton for bushes that fit the stanchions or a refund.
Thanks
Eddie Cross
I bought some years ago …
- Log in to post comments
Fork Bushes
I have a brake cylinder hone. I'll see if I can open up the Wassell bushes. Nothing to lose.
Eddie
- Log in to post comments
Wassells and quality can…
Wassells and quality can meet but its a rare occurrence so best avoided, unless you have good feedback to go on such as their excellent electronic ignition. Buying fork legs and bushes from 2 different sources can be an issue in sorting out which parts are wrong and which is right, If you buy from one source and they don't fit then dealing with one vendor is simpler.
- Log in to post comments
I agree with John...
... many years ago I bought new stanchions from AN and bushes from RGM for my Commando. As with Eddie's experience, the bushes wouldn't even go over the stanchions at all. When I measured with a micrometer the stanchions were spot on; the bushes were undersized. But I did have difficulty getting a refund from RGM. I do believe they are much better these days.
- Log in to post comments
Same....Same
Undersize and oversize bushes inside kits labelled as genuine parts are quite common. I once purchased a fork servicing kit with the green blob and guarantee of being genuine items and still found the bushes would not slide on the stanchions.
Worse and more expensive was a gearbox refurbishment kit that I purchased from a big name dealer. On the box was a label claiming Made in England. All the gear bushes rocked on their respective shafts. So the gear whine they were supposed to help stop actually became worse.
In this day and age, of computer assisted machining, these parts should be a perfect fit.
- Log in to post comments
Out of the woods!
Broke out the brake cylinder hone:
Wassell Lower bush: Impossible to fit on the new stanchion, galled on the old original stanchion so they are definately suspect. Lots of work with the brake cylinder hone. Took ages as they are metal. Also some work with emery cloth on the stanchion. Now fits tight but good. They are seamed tubing which is suspect. Outside fit on the sliders is good so not completely useless.
Wassell Upper bushes: Galled on the new stanchions. Minimum work with the brake hone (go easy as it cuts fast on the bronze/brass) and a tight but smooth fit. Bit more honing followed by polishing inside with Autosol and jobs a good un.
Lesson learned- Mix match stanchions and bushes at your peril. Wassell Fork Bushes- suspect quality. Save 20 quid shopping around and then spend 2 hours making the parts fit.
- Log in to post comments
Genuine fork bush woes
I had a similar experience to Ian and Phil but nowhere near as bad as Eddie,s nightmare. I used RGM stanchions and the AN 06-7092 fork bush and seal kit.
Stanchions were fine but one top bush i.d. needed reworking to fit either stanchion and one lower steel bush o.d. needed work to fit the sliders. The other two bushes in the kit fitted with a nice sliding action when oiled. Shouldn,t have tight spots anywhere.
Also a good idea to do a final check assembled in the sliders with oil to make sure they still work smoothly. Mine were perfect after the rework but if I did it again for my own bike, I'd buy AN stanchions with the low friction NYC bush and seal kit from the USA. Pricey but top quality.
- Log in to post comments
I'm amazed...
... that there should be such variation in sizes for what are very simple parts. I would expect a tolerance of something like +.0" / -.001" on the stanchions and +.001" / - 0" on the bushes at the most. They're not like gudgeon pin bushes where they contract on fitting and need reaming.
- Log in to post comments
Thanks all
Useful to know its not that uncommon. If money was no object I would go with Andover for everything.
Hopefully no more surprises and assembly should be straight forward.
Cheers
Eddie
- Log in to post comments
You've got a LHD E Type as…
You've got a LHD E Type as well. Lucky man. What engine is in it?
Chris
- Log in to post comments
Update
Left side stanchion rebuilt and ready to slide into the triple tree and nip up.
Oh hang on. Next problem. Does not fit! Originals slide in with room to spare so no scratching.
These must be 2 thou over. Fixing bolt out. Gentle wedging with screwdriver to open triple tree lower bolt fixing but still too tight. I would hate to open the casting to much and shear it.
Found a spare bolt and wound in lower yoke with a plate to bear against to open out the yoke. Real gentle with this but still too tight. How far can I push my luck?
F*** it it's game over for me. Back to Burton Bike bits. Ringing them now. Purchase was through ebay and they have been really good previously with nudging refunds.
Hey Chris. '67 4.2. Hopefully on the road this summer. Right now the Jag is winning for jobs being completed easily. Don't say that very often.
Eddie
- Log in to post comments
I'd say....
.. they're not fit for purpose. Just as a matter of interest, what do the old & new ones measure up at - you say the new ones are bigger?
- Log in to post comments
Just use a bigger hammer?
RGM have a useful write up for there stanchions saying that size varies.
Their "nominal" dia. is quoted as 1.359". No idea what they actually measure out as. They told me they buy them in so possibly the same UK supplier as mine. Price is similar.
2 bike shops on ebay that stock the same UK made stanchions as mine (picture of box label identical to mine), quoted a dia. of 1.363" which would account for the issue if the correct dia should be 1.359".
The cheaper versions have made in Taiwan on the packaging. No diameter quoted.
Sounds like the alternatives (unless RGM have another UK supplier) are the cheaper foreign made stanchions or raid the piggy bank and go for AN
Anyway I'm just going to suck it up.
Screwdriver on one side, thin chisel on the other. Make with the hammer Left side now in and no obvious scoring.
Ian- Old and new measurements...I do have a vernier gauge but darned if I can read it accurately any more. Must remember to teach the kids.
- Log in to post comments
Mitutoyo vernier
I gave my old style Moore and Wright vernier away years ago. Got a Mitutoyo 6" Absolute digital and never looked back. Use it for everything with switching between metric and imperial at the touch of a button. El Cheapo versions available online or Lidls etc.
For critical dimensions like these however I use a micrometer, more consistent feel and accuracy
Those front forks are fighting you all the way, top marks for perseverance. Hope it works out OK. Lovely E Type.
- Log in to post comments
Thanks Neil
Thanks Neil. I do need to go digital. Just noticed the steering head bearings are a bit notchy so will check that out next...
This has been the 1st issue with the Commando. The other jobs have been straightforward and pretty enjoyable- Rebuilt carbs, Fitted Wassel EI, Flushed oil tank, renewed all the seals in the timing cover + adjusted cam chain, stripped and cleaned clutch plates+ adjusted primary chain, lined fibreglass fuel tank, had speedo and tacho rebuilt. It's getting there
Cheers Eddie
- Log in to post comments
I agree...
... with the cheap digital caliper route. I have an old-style vernier caliper as well as 0-1" and 1-2" micrometers but rarely use anything but the digital job these days as its measurements are within a thou of the micrometers whenever I've checked. The only thing to remember is to check that the blades are clean and that you re-zero every time you use them.
With respect to the stanchions I'm astonished by those statements that the size should vary by that much. Interestingly AN have a page on pattern parts and they do describe fork stanchions that buckle in a collision. Here. Some very scary stuff - and yes I do know they have an axe (or should that be a stanchion?) to grind. I don't mind using cheap pattern parts for things like tank rubbers but would always spend the extra for things that could kill me (or my engine).
- Log in to post comments
Update
Expensive (£14!) digital vernier gauge on order
Like your Mini Chris. really early one? Super little cars
Burton Bikes replied and said they had checked all their stanchions and they all measured out at 1.359".
I'll recheck new and original stanchions and see if the CNC machine had a bad day when it made mine.
When I get the extra information I'll add a quick summary for future reference. Something like...."Those Andover Norton Stanchions look much better value when you take into account potential extra work and hassles from ill fitting parts- even when they are from UK manufacturers"
Forks all back together, 180cc of 20W BelRay oil in each leg. Action is a bit sticky and if I was being picky I would say that the hard chrome finish is not what I would regard as chrome- its satin. Anyway onwards and upwards.
- Log in to post comments
Not all 20W fork oils are created equal …
… since there's no SAE or other standard for them. This site has interesting comparisons if you find that you would prefer something a bit lighter: http://mahonkin.com/~milktree/motorcycles/fork-oil.html
- Log in to post comments
I bought some years ago before stripping the forks (no idea why I did that). New bushes wouldn't fit so I put the old ones back in. I assume they need reaming to size.